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Favorite Lover's Leap climbs--especially the obscurities!

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By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Mar 7, 2007

What are your favorites that are a little less travelled, so to speak?

Mine:
Crash Landing, .10a. A little spicy, but not too out there. great!
For Real Crack, .7. A lower buttress moderate that never gets done. Adventure climbing!
The Gamoke, .10b. Just to the right of hospital is this steep fingers to hands gem. A little dirty because it doesn't see the traffic that hospital does.

And some new ones:
Absolutely Billy, .10a. New route by petch, bolts plus a couple pieces. great leap dike climbing
Sinbad-Herbert, .10d. A rare handcrack at the leap, followed by thin dike climbing.
Crown Royal, .10c. Pulls an intimidating roof then up dikes. all bolted, but not quite a sport climb.

post yours!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Mar 7, 2007
Wild Thing, Independence Pass, CO.

I don't think these qualify as obscure, but here it goes:

The Line--one of the best 5.9s in the country.

Bear's Reach--worth climbing simply so that you can marvel at Danno's speed solo (complete with missed dyno).

Surrealistic Pillar--a well protected, interesting 5.10.

By Degaine
Mar 9, 2007

I'll go with the "little less travelled" instead of obscure, since these are at least known:

Fantasia (5.9)
Scimitar (5.9)
Pyschedelic Tree (5.9)
Bookmark (5.7)
Eagle Buttress Right (5.9)
Sinbad Herbert (climbed it before the .10d bolted extension)

Whether it's been the times I've climbed each or walking by, I rarely or never seen anyone on these climbs.

By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Mar 9, 2007

Good list degaine!

I've been trying to sack up to lead fantasia for oh, a couple seasons now!

I also haven't done P tree or eagle buttress, I'll have to get on those this summer. Bookmark is pretty interesting for a .7, and Scimitar is a great line that doesn't ever have a line because of the R, even though the R is easy climbing.

Jay listed some of the all time classics there. To that list I'd add Corrugation (my favorite climb of all time) Corner, Hospital corner and Traveller Buttress, as the ticks to get if you're just passing through.

I'll expand the thread by putting up some things I'd like to do there:

North Face route, .11a
April Fools, .9
Purple haze, .11a
Tombstone Terror, .10c (last summer's hope, but then I got hurt...)

Also, I'd love to hear from anyone who has done Wallflower or Cheap Shot.

By Degaine
Mar 13, 2007

Caughtinside, since you've climbed 5.10 at the Leap, Fantasia will seem relatively easy - a bit heady, yes, but not too hard. The crux for me, at 5'4", was reaching for the knobs on the first pitch about 15ft below the anchor and 35-40 ft runout from the last piece, but if you're 5'7" or taller, you'll be standing on a dike to reach them.

I highly recommend P. Tree, a plumbline route that hardly sees traffic. Just don't pull too hard on the flakes 15-20 feet off the ground.

Have fun!

By Marty Brenner
From Durango, CO
Mar 19, 2007

Not technically on the Leap, but It's Better With Bacon is pretty nice.

By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Mar 19, 2007

Marty Brenner wrote:
Not technically on the Leap, but It's Better With Bacon is pretty nice.


A partner of mine has recommended that as well. I'll check it out, thanks!

By 426
Mar 20, 2007

Did Wallflower eons ago--remember it as a bit junky, not highly rec'd. Has the curse of the N. Face, 'crusty'.


Degaine's list is great...all those are superb.

A few more...
N. Face (Peter Haan var.-it's the wide crack) 5.9+, probably got a lot of crust and webs in it...but a great pitch.

Fear No Evil 5.9, better than Fantasia-JMO.

Dancing Feet (10d-scary but hi quality)

Vanishing Point (a fave of mine)

End of the Line-great moves, rarely anyone on it...

Really, anything on Eagle Buttress. Even the "easy" route is way wild!! While you're over there, hit up Roofer Madness, it's a good "trainer" for a few of the routes on your list. 2nd pitch/part is tricky, don't let your guard down once over the roof...

Nobody does Magnum Force much either, it's a nice pitch if you're climbing over there.

By caughtinside
From Point Richmond, CA
Mar 20, 2007

cool, i'll look at those. I was interested in wallflower because it was a recommended route in the Sutton guide. crusty? oh well.

Yeah, I'd love to do more central/eagle buttress routes! Those areas are ALWAYS closed it seems though. I thought the nesting closures only went through august, but they were closed through september last year! I think that leaves like 3 weeks to do them. sheesh.

Vanishing Point has been on the radar for a while, meant to do it last summer but got injured. I'll look at End of the line too.

The 'R' on dancing feet always kind of scared me off that one, although the bolts did get updated. Kind of the same deal with Fear no Evil. Figure I've got to feel solid on fantasia before I try that one.

Oh, saw lots of parties on Magnum Force the last couple years, yet to do it myself though. Might as well give mainline a run too!

cheers, and thanks for the suggestions!

By 426
Mar 21, 2007

caughtinside wrote:
Oh, saw lots of parties on Magnum Force the last couple years, yet to do it myself though. Might as well give mainline a run too! cheers, and thanks for the suggestions!


Try mainline if yer on Magnum! It's not as bad as some 11c's in Tahoe, goes really easy at 5.10 C1 ;)...I always think the 'in yer face" bouldering start is the crux of both those bad boys....

By Kent Pease
From Littleton, Colorado
Mar 21, 2007

Eor's Enigma is great and you won't forget it soon.

By Paul Jakus
Mar 21, 2007

No one's mentioned the Right side of the Hourglass...off of Main Ledge there's a crap pitch followed by a 10a roof on P2, a 10b roof on P3 and a 10d roof to finish on P4.


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