Need Opinions, I have to choose one, would love your opinions on which one and why.

Thanks

PS this will be in the summer, no winter ascent.

I know everyone seems to have their opinion on these routes, sometimes very loudly, but to me I didn't discern anything super convincing either way. I first did the East Face and "everyone" told me the East Buttress was the better route. This summer I did the East Buttress and was mightily unimpressed because it wasn't very sustained (like I expected) and there's very little in the way of "real" 5th class. Most of this thing can be soloed by a competent individual or at least simul-climbed by relative newbies. My partner and I sought out more difficult variations because we expected "something more." Don't get me wrong, we still had a great time, but it wasn't the route I expected. The East Face had many of the same characteristics, lots of ledges and no sustained 5th class climbing. Both routes felt like a lot of scrambling, intermixed with short sections of fifth class.

If I had to pick one, I would choose the East Face, for the mere fact that it's a historical route. When climbing it with sticky rubber shoes, fancy cams, and the like, remind yourself that Underhill and Company climbed it in boots and probably faster before you were even a glint in your parent's eye. The Fresh Air Traverse is fun, the route had more of an "alpine" feel to it for some reason, and I always get a kick out of repeating some route that has some good history behind it.

That's my vote. Either way, enjoy and check out some of the other goods in the Whitney/Russell area while you're there if you have time.

Mike, thanks for the info. I received the Supertopo and I am leaning towards the face. I am surprised that no one else has chimed in.

How was the hike in? How long did it take you to get to iceberg lake?

I've not done the buttress, so I have no opinion on which is better. But if you are going to camp at Iceberg Lake, why not just do them both? It's such a long approach in there, not a bad idea. Also maybe do something on Russell too!

Spiro,

Plan on a day to hike in after packing up your stuff, that way you can take your time and enjoy your surroundings. I can't remember exactly how long it's taken me but probably in the neighborhood of 5 hours or so. We usually spend the morning getting permits, food and getting packed and try to get on the trail by noon. Grabbing a burger and fries at the Whitney Portal store is my favorite way to "calorie-load" for the hike up. The approach is a bit of a quad and lung burner, with a lot of vertical. I've always enjoyed it because it's kind of a neat approach up the creek drainage below the Boy Scout Lakes.

I would second what George said about doing both routes while you're up there. It's not much more to take some extra food and spend an extra day or two to climb both routes or to do something on Russell. The Fishhook Arete looks outstanding and we had a blast on the Mithral. If anything, it's fun to have some leisure time around Iceberg Lake.

Enjoy.

It's quite a hike to iceberg lake. We did it to upper boyscout and then woke up early the next day and did Mitheral Dihedral on Russell, and then hiked out after doing that. What a brutal day. Also I wasn't very impressed with the Mitheral. I hear the Fish Hook is better. Haven't done anything on Whitney. Just wanted to spray my 2 cents in here.

Definitely East Face, historical, fantastic exposure with mild to moderate climbing, tricky route finding in places but just keep looking. Crazy fun route makes ya respect the FA. Not a noob route despite the rating.

I've climbed the EF, and it was a fun route. I have friends that say the EB is a better route.

I've done the East Face a couple of times and the East Butress once. I think if I had to pick one I'd do the Butress. There is way more 5th class on it. The route finding is easier also. The East face is tricky at the fresh air traverse. (routefinding) If your worried that the climbing is not tecnicial enough go over to Russell. But both are rated at 5.7. So why would you be suprised that the climbing is not that hard ?

I havent done EB but east face is pretty fun
I highly suggest finding an extra day or two tway o over to russell, the mithral dihedral is amazing, though i thought it should have been longer...

on the way down from whitney make sure to take advantage of the scree skiing, it makes the decent way easier:)

IMHO The East Buttress is the better of the 2 routes, it is more direct, more continuous, and has some very good open pitches. While The Fresh Air Traverse on the East Face route is memorable, as is the initial Tower Traverse the rest of it is rather broken.

I would recommend dedicating a day to the hike in, and also to the hike out - why beat yourself up? Staying at Iceberg for a few days is a great option - do the Fish Hook Arete on Russell and then do the Whitney East Buttress. Be aware that FH is a couple of grades harder than EB.

Having done both routes, back to back (solo car to car in a day) I can surely say that the East Butt is the better, more asthetic, sustained, clean, and fun route...but if you were to only do ONE I would recommend the East Face...

Just because the East Butt is "better" doesn't mean the East Face is bad...in fact it is a spectacular route made even better by the history, position, exposure, and the unlikely and surprising way it weaves itself up the face.

That said, why not do them BOTH?? I know you've prob crossed it off in your mind as impossible, but really take a look at your timelimits and realize you can hike AND climb in the same day...that's my opinion.