I'm heading to Temple Crag and the Pals later in August and was wondering if anybody had been up there recently. This is my first trip to this area any beta would be appreciated. Mainly, any snow/ice on the approaches and descents? We're considering the U-notch to Thunderbolt traverse and I'm wondering if I'll need more than crampons and one axe for the notch. My pack is already gonna be heavy enough and I don't want to take too much extra crap.

Will anybody deliver pizza/beer out that far?

Chrispy,

The U-Notch is an ice climb this year. Tools and crampons necessary. We climbed it from Gayley camp about one month ago and had mostly good ice all the way up the U-Notch Couloir.

On the approach, you can expect snow once you reach the Palisade Glacier, along with the snowfield on the approach to the base of Temple Crag. The rest of the way should be clear of any snow.

Dave

I was at temple crag 2 weeks ago. The snowfield at the base is small, and the snow was very soft at 8am when we went up it. No need to kick steps or take crampons, did it no prob in tennis shoes.

I just got back from the glacier yesterday. Regarding Temple Crag, the snowfields between Venusian Blind and Sun Ribbon Arete are, as said above, small right now. I would plan on using an axe. Whether you need crampons really depends on what footwear you'll be wearing. The descent down to and through Contact Point is "wet stuff" free.

Regarding the glacier and the various couloirs, they're basically in bad shape. Most of the snow that fell this year up there got blown out by pretty high winds. As such, everything is mostly ice, yet not very good ice. You'll definitely want an axe to cross most of the glacier in the morning right now; whether you use crampons really depends on how your footwear and where you're planning to go. If you do the U-Notch, you'll definitely need crampons, probably two ice tools and ice screws. However, unless there's a pretty good snow soon that melts and freezes right, it's pretty much unclimbable right now. It's usually a route that's best attempted in the early and late seasons with this year being no exception. The whole bottom right side below and above the 'schrund looks to be nothing but black ice and seems to be getting pounded with more than the normal amount of rock fall. Also, I ran into a guide who operates up there regularly and he told me that the rock pro on the right side is not usable given the status of the ice (hence the need for screws). BTW, the V-notch looks even worse.

I didn't get over to the north couloir of TBolt, but from what I could see on my way up the Swiss Arete, the snowfield at the base of that side of the hill is really small. As such, from that and what things look like on the glacier, I'd bet that the north couloir is in about the same shape as the U- and V-Notches.

My partner and I did the Swiss Arete. Since we climbed it in approach shoes, we needed crampons since almost all of our route across the glacier on our way to Glacier Notch was black ice. If you're planning to do the Arete and have semi-rigid boots, you should be able to take "the long way round" and merely kick steps up to the notch. The Notch is free of the wet stuff and the L-Shaped snowfield, contrary to the glacier basin, is in nice condition. Even so, you can easily descend the left side of the snowfield in the talus and scree. (By the way, if you do the Arete—which I highly recommend!—just know that the this-is-the-start-of-the-descent cairn is a bit tricky to find and only made of about seven rocks. It's not quite as "substantial" as I was anticipating. Also, there are two new rap points that make descending the fourth class ledges nice and easy.) If case you haven't, you might find Sierra Mountain Center's (currently unpublished and free) Palisades Guide helpful.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Cheers.

Wow Rich, thanks for the terrific response. That is exactly what I was needing; something to base my equipment decisions on. The pdf was a nice touch. I'm going to be back in there for 5 days of climbing, so most of my time will be spent on Temple, but it would really be nice to do something taller like Sill. The Milk Bottle on Starlight has been catching my eye a lot as well.

Hey crispy, temps on the EASTSIDE have been around 32-35 in the mornings at 8,000 ft. Snow could be firm. Milkbottle is unreal. Also try East face of thunderbolt,3rd class ridge on Winchell is a gem. cheers.