By lars johnson From San Francisco, CA Feb 28, 2007
| I have have climbed Craven Image twice [right side of the main wall at Lover's leap] and have found that the start of the 2nd pitch off a pillar is a hands only mantel off a single grey knob with ankle crushing potential. Was I on something else? It felt a lot harder than 5.7, more like 5.9 or 10a. All told I remember it being a great route. |  |
By caughtinside From Point Richmond, CA Mar 4, 2007
| hi Lars,
Are you talking about the beginning of p2, below that stemmy wide crack/groove thing?
I haven't done craven image, but I went up there to do ladybug a couple summers ago. We 4th classed up about 40' or so to the top of a block, and roped up there. And I remember doing a pretty heady start, with a mantle like you described, with no gear, right off the bat.
kind of got my attention, since we were looking to do some casual 5.7.
Anyway, we were totally off route the whole day. I went left into that cleft/groove that I now hear is craven image, traversed right across a face to a 2 or 3 bolt belay. Climbed higher on wandering rock, and the 3rd pitch was so licheny it felt like a 1st ascent! (but probably wasn't)
The topo coverage of the west wall is pretty poor, in my opinion, in every Leap guide I've seen. But, that has the advantage of making it so no one goes over there! Definitely more of an adventure feel over there, once you turn that corner...
Anyway, it was 2 years ago so the memory is a little foggy, but I do remember having to do a mantle right off the bat, with dire consequences for failure. |  |
By caughtinside From Point Richmond, CA Mar 4, 2007
| Also, has anyone done West Wall or Crazy Daze? Both start off the ledge below hospital corner, after sharing the first pitch. i found a TR on summitpost for West Wall, sounds pretty cool.
Do you finish those two by dead tree direct? |  |
By lars johnson From San Francisco, CA Mar 5, 2007
| Hi Caught-
If you remember a dicey hands only mantle off a detached pillar that was it. Right above that was a right facing corner but we stayed right, on the face climbing on big dikes vertical to slightly over hanging. Sling belay off of dikes at the end of that pitch. I believe the next pitch took us to the Slash and finished on Dead Tree Direct.
You are right. Things seem a little wilder over on the right side.
Do you surf? OB local here. |  |
By caughtinside From Point Richmond, CA Mar 5, 2007
| Hi Lars,
Yes, that sounds exacly like what we did, at least that first roped up pitch. Got lost after that. I'd call the mantle 5.9ish? definitely a wake up if you're expecting a 5.7 pleasure cruise.
Yes, I surf, but haven't done much for the last 4 years when I was in Davis/Sac. Just moved to the east bay, so I hope to be getting wet more regularly. Hopefully I've still got the guns to surf OB, that place is cool. |  |
By Marty Brenner From Durango, CO Mar 6, 2007
| Lars, I think the problem is that you are getting OLD!!! |  |
By lars johnson From San Francisco, CA Mar 6, 2007
| Could be Marty!!! Of course the last time I climbed Craven Image was 10 years ago. Jesus! I was old then too!!!! |  |
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