i'm meeting some buddies in yosemite next month who have never climbed before but "want to try it". is there a good crag in yosemite to take new people? keep in mind that "never climbed before" means they really don't know jack shiat about climbing. when i first started i could barely claw my ass up a 5.5, and that was with a few hangs. is there a crag with a fair amount of 5.4-5.7 climbs somewhere in the valley, or in toulumne?

swan slabs in the valley might be ok

Jon, don't know about a concentrated crag, but courtesy of the Mountain Project route finder, here are a few decent routes between 5.2 and 5.6

http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType>>>>>

Also, the valley is likely to be hotter than a shirtless gym. You should do a search in Tuolumne as well. Lot's cooler up there. You'll be able to keep shirts on.

and a few for Tuolomne as well...

http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType>>>>>

Jon,

Swan slabs is where the YMS guides take beginner classes. Easy to set up TR's, close to the road, etc. Bring sunscreen as the place bakes in July and if you're there in the afternoon make sure you've got bug juice.

If you're in Tuolumne across from Pywiak Dome (where the Dike route is) is the Bunny Slopes. Many really good moderates there without the glacier polish you find on many of the domes. Heads up though, they are long and difficult to set up a TR as you would likely want to do with your crew. If you've got an 80m cord, you're golden.

If they do well you could bring them down to Lembert for some easier stuff there.

It's a baker in the Valley in July. Fortunately, it's one of the most beautiful places on earth.

El cap the nose is only like 5.8. Right?

thanks all. does it get humid in the valley? toulumne looks like the place to be in the heat eh?

Shawn, I've got a home in AZ as well as J-Tree so I'm no stranger to the heat.

That said, one year (like every year) we go to the Valley in the heat of the summer. That's where we coined the term...."MiracleWhip™".

MiracleWhip™ is that strange white liquid than runs down your arms. What makes MiricleWhip? The perfect combination of heat, humidity, fear, chalk and rain.

It's a miracle you didn't whip on that route.

We can't get enough... fun trip reports of the Valley in July...
http://www.fishproducts.com/mbs/heat_wave_baby_tr/heatwave_b>>>>>

can't find the one when we did Washington's Column on July 4th because there was nobody on it. Packed up and hit the stone at 5pm (alpine start) with two rolls of lifesavers and a can of vegetarian Chili.

Cool or should I say hot report, Susan. Brings back painful (but good) memories.

I went to Swan slab. I felt like 5.6 was 5.8, but I am a wimp when it comes to polished smearing and jamming!

The Manure pile is another potential area for you to check out. Don't let the name put you off. There are some very nice climbs there and most are very moderate. It's south facing too though so it'll be toasty.

Check out Knob Hill...its off the highway just up from the valley on the way to Tuolomne.. I've TR'd there several times with younger groups. A couple of nice easier cracks and one longer face climb. You'll need two ropes for the TR - anchor at a tree. Sorry, don't remember the names of the routes but it's a small area - you'll find them. Also, there are a couple in the Church Bowl area that are 5.7-5.8 and can be TR'd.

There are some great easier multi-pitch routes, but don't recommend them with true beginners...

Have fun!

I would definitely recommend you head up to the meadows. Not only will you beat the heat, but it ain't like Disneyland. If you do head up there, Puppy Dome is a great place to take beginners. It's a two minute walk south of the backcountry permit center. Don't let the stiff climbs listed in the guidebooks (e.g., Do or Fly [.11c], Horseshoes and Handgrenades [.12a]) shy you away from there. Puppy Dome is where YMS teaches beginning climbing; everything is top-ropable. It has a number of straightforward face climbs on the main (northwest facing) wall and Puppy Crack, a really nice 5.6 hand crack (also located on the northwest side at the very base of the dome). Also, as mentioned, the bunny slopes are a great place to take beginners.