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Advice for Mt. Whitney Mountaineer's Route

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By Paul Reineck
Jun 25, 2008

I am strongly looking at doing the Mountaineer's Route up Mt. Whitney this summer. I'll be going sometime around mid-late August.

Do any of you who have experience in this route have any pointers for me?

Talked with the Rangers the other day, and there seemed to be some mixed answers with regard to snow conditions. I'm bringing my snow/ice gear out there just in case. Deff. taking a helmet on the climb.

I've seen some pics of the route, and some places look pretty steep. Would pro be recomended despite the class 3 rating? Or is this over-reacting? Not sure if the guys posting pics took a more "adventurous" route close to the top.

Any good places to look for a TOPO map with the route? (admitedly, I should do some more google searching for this).

Thanks.

By jon vandub
From westminster,co
Jul 2, 2008

should be great that time of season,... probably no snow left by that time.

nothing to worry about......just have fun!!!

By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jul 5, 2008
Jonny Crane

Indeed, probably no snow left in late August. I was up there July 4th and you can scramble up the left side of the gully on rock and bypass everything but the last, say, 200 feet of snow. We summited via East Buttress and descended the Mountaineer's Route. Lots of loose scree above the snow.

Make sure you get the good beta (Supertopo) on how to get from the top of the gully to the summit. There is definitely a long way and a short way to go about it...

Might want to look at camping at Iceberg Lake a night before the climb. Then get a real early start so you're on the route before the sun softens the snow. And get down before around 3pm while the snow is soft in the afternoon. For descent we didn't find an axe necessary, the angle is low enough to slide down - just be careful. We found the snow with lots of suncups.

By Jon Leicht
From Santee, CA
Jul 6, 2008
Me in the winter

PAul,
Here is a great site to dig up current gully conditions
http://www.mt-whitney.info/

the guys on this board are really good, knowledgeable and always willing to help out, much more so that the portal store board which can be a lot of newbies (there I go using that phrase again)

Just a few weeks back there was still a lot of snow and ice.

Normally, with tons of snow, the last 400 feet is steep and a little exposed, but very doable. when there is a lot of ice (like there could be now, it can get a little sketchey.

If you do it in August, it will be straight Sierra 3rd class in those last 400 feet or so (sierra 3rd class can feel like 4th class sometimes, but it is only 3rd) no snow at all.

in August, no pro or rope is needed for sure...it would be overkill for sure

While route finding is pretty straight forward the whole way, there are certainly tricks that help make the journey easier. Peruse through the board and read the reports. there is a lot there to help with guidance...and the guys are always willing to run up the hill with you if you need company.

Cheers, j

By Paul Reineck
Jul 6, 2008

Thanks for the link! I'm already checking stuff out.


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