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Justin Dubois. 5-2-03.
The three "in on the lead" oringinal bolts have been replaced with modern 3/8th x 2 1/2 inch. Find this asthetic slab climb up the outside edge of the Pear's, RIGHT DIHEDRAL . Heady and sustained climbing from start to finish... A midsize cam can be placed in a pod down and right of 1st bolt. Stand up on a black horizontal edge to clip 1st bolt. Harder 5.10 angles to the 2nd bolt and the very edge. Keep to the edge on more 5.10 and the 3rd bolt. Finish with a 50 ft. slab section that is 5.8/9 but unprotected, to belay in a horizontal crack. Scramble off to the east.
Selection of small to large cams, slings and quickdraws.
|Comments on Northern Lights
|By tom Jensen|
Aug 10, 2007
Wow! A trancendental experience was attained. Screw your lead head on TIGHT and get on it! It is an outstanding route! DO gear the crack to the right because the hardest moves are before the first bolt. I thought so anyway. You will climb well into ground fall land after clipping the last bolt and heading for the top, but the climbing is straightforward.