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Northern Devils Canyon

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amphitheater, The 
Benadryl Wall 
Boy Scout Wall 
Devil's Rejects  
Diamond dog 
Pocket Plaza 
Power tower 
Shaman Wall 
Shenandoah Wall 
Solstice Tower 
South End 
Stormwatch Wall 
Troll Hut 

Northern Devils Canyon  


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Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 33.341, -111.0399 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,892
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin E Tyrrell on May 10, 2010
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Northern Devils-photo by Jeff Gibson

Description 

Desert Canyon with several Sport, Trad and mixed crags throughout.

Getting There 

Northern Devils is accessed in one of two primary ways. Enter the northern end of the canyon via FR 342, the dirt road on the northern side of the US60 at approx mile marker 231, drive up to the power substation and park on the north side down the hill. For southern section of Northern Devils park on north side of US60 at approx mile marker 232 in pull off w/ a blocked off dirt road. This leads to an old picnic/ campground in southern end of canyon... hike in. GPS tag is for Parking near power substation.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

64 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',10],['5.8',16],['5.9',8],['5.10',13],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Northern Devils Canyon:
Grippen the Coals   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Diamond dog
Bakefest in america   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   The amphitheater
Illegal Dihedral   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Stormwatch Wall
Mixed Beans   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Diamond dog
Browse More Classics in Northern Devils Canyon

Featured Route For Northern Devils Canyon
Shady days

Krispy Kreme 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Stormwatch Wall
Great route!! super sustained pocketed face climbing in the shade....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Northern Devils Canyon
Photos of Northern Devils Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Stormwatch Wall
BETA PHOTO: Stormwatch Wall
topping out the amphitheater.
BETA PHOTO: topping out the amphitheater.
Curtis in Northern Devils Cyn
Curtis in Northern Devils Cyn
Finding our way in
Finding our way in
Diamond Dog
BETA PHOTO: Diamond Dog
Stormwatch Wall
BETA PHOTO: Stormwatch Wall
The saddle is where the trail from the road ends a...
BETA PHOTO: The saddle is where the trail from the road ends a...
a heart in the middle of n. devils canyon
a heart in the middle of n. devils canyon

Comments on Northern Devils Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin Haverkamp
Apr 16, 2012
I know others have used the JI ranch road (pull off to the right over a cattle guard) to park, scrambled up to the power line road to hike into the top of the amphitheater and storm watch wall. This weekend we came back to notes under the wipers of our 2 vehicles threatening a tow, so I'd advise against it unless someone establishes access with the landowner. Not sure whether parking in the pullout just outside the cattle guard would be advisable either.
By Ronin
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Mar 10, 2013
Trail update 03/10/2013:

Having hiked through the canyon via several trails in the last three months, let the guy who built most of the first trails back in the mid-90s offer a word of advice:

Every "direct approach" trail leading to and from the Amphitheater, Pocket Plaza, or the Stormwatch Area is eroded, overgrown, and otherwise in complete disrepair. I don't know or truly care whether this comes from the impact of herds of free range cattle (a major problem) or the fact that 99 out of 100 climbers are too lazy, stupid, and/or self-centered to fix the trails they damage (an even bigger problem, based on my 30+ years of observations and mostly solo trailwork across the U.S.A.)

The source of impact is beside the point... this is inexcusable. Three of us built these trails, and managed to maintain them for four years, despite cattle and rain, heat and cold. It's obvious that the publishing of a mini-guide brought out plenty of climbers... it's a shame that none of them seem to have been responsible adults.

At present, the best way to approach the Amphitheater, Stormwatch, Pocket Plaza, or the South End is to park at the power station or over the hill at the old Wind Ridge pullout and campsite. From here, hike the main trail down the wash, passing below the Solstice Tower and Boy Scout Wall to reach Diamond Dog. Drop down into the canyon, cross the creek if it's flowing and follow the old road up steep, loose switchbacks to the east rim. Follow a cairn-marked trail south and slightly west to reach the top of the original Stormwatch Wall, then continue south, below the Safari Big Africa boulder and the upper tier of Amphitheater climbs (Ronin, Driving Miss Crazy, Spring Break, etc.) to drop in on your chosen area and routes. To reach the base of the original Stormwatch Wall, head south from the point on the old road out of the canyon where you pass below a large, rotten formation directly opposite the wall to the south. A faint trail leads to left end of the Wall.
By Mark Mueller
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 8, 2013
I didn't think the trail was that bad, I took it all the way to the top of Stormwatch. Some slippery sandy sections could use some solid rock stances but honestly this trail was no worse than many other Arizona climber's trails... Lots of new hardware on the routes at Stormwatch. Very much appreciated!
By Ronin
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Apr 29, 2013
Maybe it's just the perspective of remembering when the trails were great, instead of "not that bad".

Glad you got to check out the new hardware. Unfortunately, I left some of the anchors in place when we got rained out. Cheers to anyone who finds my booty... hope the biners find good homes!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 20, 2014
This is a beautiful area that I'm very happy to have finally gotten to. Purely by chance as we were heading to my more "normal" haunt down in Lower Devils, and it was a good chance indeed. Have had the mini guide for years, but never gone and checked it out. I navigated from it and had absolutely no difficulty at all -- parked above the Power Sub Station, walked into Diamond Dog, then across to Stormwatch, then up and over to The Amphitheater, then down the creek to Creek Walls and up and out that way, which was the worst section of trail. Everything else was ok and a hell of a lot better than our trails in The Refuge that took a beating after the fire. Am very impressed with the route setting, the anchors, and the care that went into the trails. Nice work folks! Will undoubtedly get back here and will try to post some more pics to make the navigation easier for others. Marty's guide is well sketched and pretty darn easy to navigate from. I don't think we lost more than a minute to trail finding.