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Northeastern Roof Cracks and Inverted Offwidths!

Original Post
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

I know it's the end of the season, but let's talk about getting inverted! Due to my limited knowledge of what we have, I can only offer up things like:

Roofer Madness - Cave Mountain - 5.11++ - Handish size

Walking the Devil - Rumney - 5.12 - OW

Zacker Cracker - Rumney - 5.10+ - Hand Size

These type of routes are a blast to climb, and I'd love to find more of them! Yes, boulder problems count too.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Up on the right side of the second tier at Farley there is an absolutely burly looking offwidth.....can't remember the name but the inversion comes at the beginning and it's gotta be a .13

M Santisi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,889

Clutch and cruise at the beer walls. Over hanging fist crack. In my opinion quite sand bagged at 5.8.

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Just found it, Bulletproof....5.13-

instagram.com/p/veK8xQKQgG/

youtube.com/watch?v=JU1g9US…

Derek Jf · · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 335
Nick Votto wrote:at Farley there is an absolutely burly looking offwidth.....it's gotta be a .13
Bullet Proof
[EDIT: looks like Nick posted the same vid of the route]

I like the idea of this thread man, will be following
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

I heard about Red Tape in the Gunks, but don't know much about it. Lost city perhaps?

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

Kansas City or Sling Time in the Gunks

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

The momument in lions head. Shit! that's in Canada.

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,536
Ben's roof 5.13a, in Val-David north of Montreal.
ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 15

Tennessee Excursion (.11a) in Chapel Pond Gully is one of my favorites! It doesn't usually dry out until late in the summer but sooo good!

Jeffrey LeCours · · New Hampshire · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,381
Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Well my brother in law Peter Lataille and I put up an off width out a roof at Eagles Bluff in Maine (not THE Eagles buff, there is another close by at Mountainy Pond).

It was like 1982 or something and there had been a photo of Randy Leavitt in Climbing mag on this roof crack doing "Leavitation" where you stick your legs up into the offwidth. We made a crack simulator in my basement using two doors with plywood in between. It was harder to stick in, but easier to move in,
than the actual offwidth which slopes up. But we trained and trained.

Stevie Damboise and I started out with tube cocks (they fell out). Then Peter and I moved to "seismos" which held but if you barely touched them, they fell out too. Kind of scary when you are hanging upside down 60 feet off the ground.

So we hung off seismos and put in two bolts on the offset crack.

So we sent it, and were debating whether or not it was the astronomical grade of 5.12.

We got back to the car and the digital clock read "5:12" so it was settled.

I know that it has been repeated, but not often.

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507

Ward that is a killer story, I'd love to see the route!

Jake Perry · · Concord, NH · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 1,382

What about The Torcher in Franconia Notch?

Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Jake Perry wrote:What about The Torcher in Franconia Notch?
This is torture!

I'll see myself out.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Times change eh Ward ?!

Raptor Roof at back Sundown is 11+ just a bit wider than fist..The companion to Roofer is I think gang bang similar grade and the nextcrack is 1 1/4 stacks, not free yet

There are several cracks at Mineral sight that are still aid,,big roofs 20+ feet

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Brian M · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 155

Haven't gotten on it yet but Thee Off-Width in North-Eastern Mass.

mountainproject.com/v/thee-…

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Cool! looks rather harder than Dougs Roof i'd say

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Last year Kris Fiore put up this beast of a line up at Bone Mt. In VT mountainproject.com/v/10958…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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