Northeast Route  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Brian Povolny, Will Taylor, 1983 Submitted By:  Aaron Child on Jun 22, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

North Tower

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Description 

This route follows the major crack system to the left of Serendipity on the northeast side of the tower. Start out by climbing a Supercrack like hand crack, then climb 30 feet of awkward off-width to a big ledge. I belayed my buddy here using a gear anchor since there are no belay bolts on the route. For the second pitch, follow the left facing corner to a saddle. From here, make some dicey, unprotected moves onto a lower summit, and traverse to the arete of the highest summit. Make some easy, exposed moves using the arete to another big ledge. This section is protected by two star drives and a questionable pin. The rock topping out onto the ledge is extremely hollow and loose. It will break if you yard on it too hard. Since there are no belay bolts on this route, I belayed my buddy from a four inch crack on top of this ledge. We then traversed around to Serendipity's anchor, and surmounted the summit block.

Both leading and following the second pitch is extremely exciting. You don't want to blow it traversing or you'll take a huge swing.

Location 

The major crack system to the left of Serendipity.

We rappelled off of Serendipity's anchors with one double rope rappel.

Protection 

2 sets of friends with extra larger sizes for the off-width (4,5,6), 1 set of TCU's, a set of stoppers, and long slings for extending pieces and anchor building.

Photos of Northeast Route Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Safety in numbers...