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This route follows the major crack system to the left of Serendipity on the northeast side of the tower. Start out by climbing a Supercrack like hand crack, then climb 30 feet of awkward off-width to a big ledge. I belayed my buddy here using a gear anchor since there are no belay bolts on the route. For the second pitch, follow the left facing corner to a saddle. From here, make some dicey, unprotected moves onto a lower summit, and traverse to the arete of the highest summit. Make some easy, exposed moves using the arete to another big ledge. This section is protected by two star drives and a questionable pin. The rock topping out onto the ledge is extremely hollow and loose. It will break if you yard on it too hard. Since there are no belay bolts on this route, I belayed my buddy from a four inch crack on top of this ledge. We then traversed around to Serendipity's anchor, and surmounted the summit block.
Both leading and following the second pitch is extremely exciting. You don't want to blow it traversing or you'll take a huge swing.
The major crack system to the left of Serendipity.
We rappelled off of Serendipity's anchors with one double rope rappel.
2 sets of friends with extra larger sizes for the off-width (4,5,6), 1 set of TCU's, a set of stoppers, and long slings for extending pieces and anchor building.
BETA PHOTO: Safety in numbers...
|Comments on Northeast Route
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 23, 2010
If you get on this route thinking it will be a cruise...you just might end up being a bit surprised. ;-)
Take a 40 foot piece of webbing for the crapola anchors on the summit.
Or better yet...bring a drill and 2 bolts.
Great summit with a killer view.