Gain the broad ridge and climb a mix of easy 5th, 4th, and 3rd class for the first half of the climb. The ridge narrows and route finding becomes more engaging to the base of the tower. We climbed this feature in two steep pitches, the first being the crux of the route. The position on top of the tower is excellent. Make a wild and exposed move off the tower to regain the ridge. From there it's mostly easy 5th with some steeper sections to the top. There are many options on this fun climb choose your own adventure.
Double set of cams, nuts, many slings.
Looking down the climb from half way up the tower....
The ridge from the east.
Looking up at the tower.
View of the ridge from north face of Silex.
|Comments on Northeast Ridge
|By Ray Hellinger|
From: Durango, CO
Aug 8, 2012
Fun route. Did it in a day from Beartown (FYI, don't get up to Beartown from the Creede side...road is really bad) in 12.5hrs. Finding the trail up Stormy Gulch in the dark is hard, even after having been there before. The climb was mostly 4th and lower 5th with a few pitches of 5.6 and 5.8 thrown in. My partner was much shorter than me and was afraid to make the airy step from the tower back to the wall, so, I put in an anchor and lowered her. Anchor should still be there. The route goes pretty fast.