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Mount Bryce (3,507m)
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North Face T 
Northeast Ridge T 
South Glacier/South Face T 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: James Outram, C Kaufmann, 1902
Page Views: 505
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 16, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: MOUNT BRYCE
NORTHEAST RIDGE
BRITISH COLUMBIA
conto...

INTRODUCTION

One of the best ridge traverses in the Canadian Rockies. Outram's guide, Christian Kaufmann, was climbing at his limit and basically soloed the crux. The 1902 party approached up the Alexandria River to a camp at Cinema Lake. The central peak was bypassed to the south.

APPROACH

The Bush River Road begins near Donald, BC. Turn onto the Rice Brook Road at the 98 kilometer sign. Four kilometers of increasingly bad road lead to the decommissioning closure. Good 4wd will shorten the hike. The last roadside campsites are off on a short spur near the 68 kilometer sign.

THE CLIMB

Hiking the old road is tougher than a trail because it was dug up and is getting vegetated. After a few kilometers an old bridge site is reached. Easier crossing may be found at bit upstream. Two more kilometers of overgrown road are followed to a moraine crossing. Another kilometer of logging track leads to the end of the logging. Then a cross-country climb of 3,500 feet is required to reach the crest of the Northeast Ridge at 9,600'.

The ridge is used to traverse two sub-summits, the Northeast and Central peaks, on the way to the top of Mount Bryce. The Northwest Peak is the true summit (11'506).

The crux climbs a step on the ridge of the Northeast Peak. A 25 meter pitch up a smooth gray buttress, 5.6. Easier snow and rock complete the climb of the Northeast Peak.

The second false summit, the Central Peak, is tackled directly up it's northeast ridge too. The Central Peak can be dodged by traversing glacier on the south side of the ridge.

The final northeast ridge of the Northwest Peak climbs almost 1,000' to the summit. Several roped pitches can be done to the top. Getting around the spectacular cornices is best done with good front-points, two tools, long screws and snow pickets.





Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Bryce NER route photo from "Selected Climbs in the Canadian Rockies by Sean Dougherty"
BETA PHOTO: Bryce NER route photo from "Selected Climbs in the...
center and NE peaks of Bryce as we head back to camp.
center and NE peaks of Bryce as we head back to ca...
Bryce NER below grey band
Bryce NER below grey band
on NER of Bryce main peak
on NER of Bryce main peak
Bryce NER above grey band
Bryce NER above grey band
sunset just before reaching camp
sunset just before reaching camp
chillin at 9200' camp evening before the climb
chillin at 9200' camp evening before the climb
Bryce main peak on left. We bypassed center peak on glacier because of time concerns.
BETA PHOTO: Bryce main peak on left. We bypassed center peak o...
Bryce from camp. Like a beautiful lady dressed in satin, with a little attitude. We would get to know her better the next day.
Bryce from camp. Like a beautiful lady dressed in ...
summit ridge Bryce main peak
summit ridge Bryce main peak
getting close to NE peak
getting close to NE peak
looking back to NE peak as we descend
looking back to NE peak as we descend
On top of NE peak. Center and main (NW) peaks beyond.
On top of NE peak. Center and main (NW) peaks beyo...
Mt Columbia and Twins from Bryce
Mt Columbia and Twins from Bryce

Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
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By Joe Catellani
From: Seattle, wa
Oct 11, 2013

We had good snow conditions on the main(NW)peak and axe and crampons were sufficient gear. There were a few pins on the short grey band crux pitch and raps were off fixed anchors but slings may need replacement. Pins generally more useful than nuts because most cracks quite parallel.