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Zeus
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Northeast Ridge 
Sisyphus 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b A0 [details]
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Fred Beckey, Sept., 1970
Page Views: 1,984
Submitted By: toddgordon on Jun 23, 2007
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Steve Swanke on Zeus. Photo; Todd Gord...

Description 

This climb had a tiny bit of free climbing, and then mostly all aid off many bolts. There were 35 bolts on this climb, but the bolts were removed, and this climb no longer exists.


Location 

This climb went up the northeast ridge of Zeus.


Protection 

You USED to need alot of quick draws and a few cams.(# 2 and # 4 friend)



Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Steve Swanke on the summit of Zeus, Moses in the background.  Photo: Todd Gordon
Steve Swanke on the summit of Zeus, Moses in the b...
Old topo from '88.
Old topo from '88.
Steve Swanke on NE Ridge of Zeus.  Photo; Todd Gordon
Steve Swanke on NE Ridge of Zeus. Photo@SEMICOLON...
Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 28, 2013
By Ben Kiessel
Jun 23, 2007

What a shame. Hopefully the Compressor Route does not have the same fate.

By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2007

was it chopped? were the bolts removed? can it be "retro-fitted"?

By Ben Kiessel
Jul 12, 2007

To quote Eric in DR 1, "Bolts placed on the historic first ascent were chopped by an unknown party playing God, leaving behind the graffiti of bolt-hole scars."

Pretty lame that someone would chop another personís route, especially when it is in the middle of the dessert.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 11, 2008

Back in the clean-climbin' seventies I used to hear a lot of Beckey bad-mouthing. Always by gumbies who couldn't do his routes. Even this one!

Thanks for posting this one Todd.

By David Levy
Jan 14, 2008

During my first trip to Canyonlands in 1988, I was purchasing Bjornstad's original Desert Rock (1988) in the visitor's center, when the ranger pointed out Bjornstad standing next to me. I basically introduced myself as a desert rookie, and he signed the new guidebook: "May Desert Rock entice you into frequent holidays to the splendor and magic of canyon country...", wished us well, and asked that we come visit after our climbing adventure. According to the guidebook, Northeast sounded straightforward. Armed with a free rack and extra biners, we were surprised to find few, if any, bolts on the second pitch and were forced to retreat. Upon explaining our findings to Mr. Bjornstad when we returned to Moab, he could only exclaim,"When you climb in the Desert, you should always carry a bolt kit." Point well taken. A great lesson learned early-on, and thanks Eric, I have been enjoying the magic of canyon country ever since....

By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 8, 2008

Are the bolt holes in good shape and useable enough for removable bolts like those made by Climb Tech?

By Brian in SLC
Apr 8, 2008

Nope. There really aren't any holes. Who ever chopped this route did kinda that: chopped it. Most of the holes still have a bolt in them, with a mangled and/or flattened hanger. Some are bolt shafts. Didn't recall any holes. Looks aweful.

By James Garrett
Dec 18, 2009

I agree that it it is indeed sad that somebody eliminated this route. Glad I was able to do it back in the 80s with Carolina Petrelli and Dougal McCarty when it was still "in". Without any guidebooks back then, it was quite an adventure doing it We had a blast as I recall, and consider it a blasphemy that someone decided to chop a classic route in a beautiful setting. Wish I could just go "run" up it again sometime.

By Jamie Princo
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2010

someone removed the bolts?!?!? come on!

my heart just jumped after discovering there was a 5.7/A0 on zeus, then sank while reading about the bolts. that sucks. does canyonlands no bolts ethics prevent bolts from being replaced in the old slots once again since it's not further scarring the rock? what do you think the route goes without the bolts? 5.9?

jamie

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2010

Without the bolts it'll probably go at around 5.16 X. A 35 bolt ladder on Wingate doesn't sound like a great free climbing project.

By Highclmbr
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 28, 2013

To Ben's comment above, the compressor route on Cerro Torre did die the same fate, sorry.

www.climberism.com/cerro-torres-compressor-route-climbed-and>>>