Type: Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 2 pitches
FA: Gerry Roach, 1984
Page Views: 778 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The route is a little dirty in a few spots since it is under-traveled and at an infrequently visited crag. Still, it is worth doing if you are in the area.

P1 (5.7, 100'): start at the Northeast Corner of the rock, and climb up to the base of the bulge, perhaps 15 meters up. Escape the bulge by going right onto some ramps on the North Face. Some gear is available while you climb up these and then vertically towards a dark, dirty corner (good protection, <1" cams). At this corner, the climbing would get hard if it were not for stepping straight out left on good holds and then up onto the East face. Climb up on the east face to a good horizontal crack and belay.

P2 (5.5, 200'): go left, and pick the easiest spot to climb up a short, vertical section to gain the second half of the slab, and climb this to the summit. You can find huecos to thread for a belay, or perhaps some large cam placements. A 60m rope will just barely get you there.

Location Suggest change

This route starts at the North end of the East face of the Devil's Advocate, climbing up from the lowest section of rock up around to the north side, then back up to the east. Belay and then climb the east face for 60 meters to the summit.

Protection Suggest change

A standard light rack. Large tricams would be a bonus on the north side portion of the route if you would prefer to minimize the somewhat typical Flatiron runouts. Long slings are a plus.

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