Northeast Ridge Easy 5th
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine |
| Consensus: | 5.0 [details] |
| FA: | Norman Clyde - May 27, 1932 |
| Season: | Spring to Fall |
| Submitted By: | Chris Owen on Mar 14, 2006 |
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Mike and Tony pose on top of the large tower low o...
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Description An excellent scramble on solid granite, with spectacular views along the summit ridge. Start at the low point on the ridge (Peppermint Pass) and follow its crest, at first low angle, pass the large tower on the left and begin to climb steeper rock, using whatever weakness you can find, generally stay left of the ridge itself (which is soon joined by the North Arete). Below the summit ridge the rock is quite steep and you may want to use a rope. Gain the summit ridge and follow it to the required summit mantle.
Location Approach: From Dade Lake hike across benches and perhaps snow then more benches up to Peppermint Pass. Descent: Descend down Class 4 rocks on the West side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards and down snow/scree and steps back to Dade Lake.
Protection Solo or rope and small rack for the upper section.
Why must I be a man with a suitcase full of cheese...
| Final mile of the approach.
| Pick a line, start climbing.
| View of the NE ridge.
| Lunch of champions. In the notch that leads to the...
| Claire Rasmussen on the summit.
| Claire Rasmussen below Bear Creek Spire
| Chris on a spicier variation
| Craze features on the granite
| Fins galore
| NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire in winter.
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| Comments on Northeast Ridge |
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By 426 Mar 5, 2007
| One of my favorite routes in the Sierras.... |
By Sirius From: Oakland, CA Sep 23, 2008
| Absolutely, positively, undeniably classic. |
By Bennett From: pdx Jul 18, 2009
| climbed this last week, phenomenal. did some 5.7 up high, last 5 pitches roped and stayed on the ridge. some steep snow and exciting talus for sure, ice axe handy for decent. the 4th class ridge, some 2/3 of the route had at least a 5.2 move on it... overhanging reach to ledge bellyflop with dirt and detritus... |
By Hamik Mukelyan Aug 26, 2012
| This is a really cool route to do in winter. No ice or whatever, but the scenery is pretty sweet (see photo) |
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