|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable
Walk up the W fork of the Toklat river and walk right up to the obvious base of the route. Pick the steepest (most direct) line and go! Crevasses do exist at the base of the route. Our party skied the NE face - first recorded descent if we're not mistaken - otherwise a steep downclimb and possible rappels are needed.
Pickets and screws. One mountain ax and one tool are nice.
From: Portland, OR
Jun 3, 2009
You don't have to register in Talkeetna, but you do need a wilderness permit from the Backcountry desk at the Park Headquarters.