Northeast Face  WI1 Steep Snow

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Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3500 feet, Grade V Consensus:  WI1 [details] FA:  Season:  April - September Submitted By:  cerickson on Jun 3, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The NE face of Scott Peak.

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Description 

The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable

Location 

Walk up the W fork of the Toklat river and walk right up to the obvious base of the route. Pick the steepest (most direct) line and go! Crevasses do exist at the base of the route. Our party skied the NE face - first recorded descent if we're not mistaken - otherwise a steep downclimb and possible rappels are needed.

Protection 

Pickets and screws. One mountain ax and one tool are nice.

Photos of Northeast Face Slideshow

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Getting through the crux (20ft below the summit)	It's a long walk from Toklat.	Spectacular view from the summit.
Steep, steep, icy skiing.