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Feather Peak
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Feather Couloir (North Couloir) 
North Ridge T 
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Northeast Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Coliver, Keller, Waller, Lichtman - August 1966
Season: Early to Late Summer
Page Views: 1,858
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Schematic - the way we went and nothing more.

Description 

Another one of those High Sierra east faces which doesn't gets done much - but it's a good outing, especially the last 2 pitches which are pretty physco. The last pitch is very memorable.

P1 (5.7) Loose crack off sloping ledge.
P2 (5.7) Shallow groove, heading rightwards.
P3 (5.4) Easy climbing over loose blocks to sandy ledges.
P4 (5.4) Up chimney behind blocks and around the corner - good stuff.
P5 (5.6) Up easy slabs and cracks - fun.
P6 (5.4) Up rib, then right, easy.
P7 (5.4) Easy loose section right then up steps to platform.
P8 (5.6) Up cracks and big flakes to base of left-facing dihedral splitting the Headwall.
P9 (5.8) Good climbing up steep corner 'till beneath the roof then pull onto a cool, exposed little ledge and wonder why you ever came. Small wires and cams for belay.
P10 (5.9 crux) On the left, awkward and exposed up and over into the final crack - which is sustained all the way to a step left and toe traverse just below the summit.

Location 

Left of 2 sloping ledges on the NE face.

Protection 

Standard rack with large cams for last pitch, ice-axe seasonal.


Photos of Northeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Jonathan Bowman pulls up to the little ledge at the end of Pitch 9.
Jonathan Bowman pulls up to the little ledge at th...

Comments on Northeast Face Add Comment
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By supert
Sep 4, 2013

Start below black water streak
P1 Climb through small roof
P2 Stay L of detached block
P9 (5.9) Steep, very loose rock, leaning pillars, hollow columns, dangerous
P10 (5.10a) Spectacular, exposed, hands - off width crack
Descent gully between Royce and Feather; stay left. Sand covered glacial ice, with loose rock. Recommend rappel vs down climb