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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 1000 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Kenneth Boche and Russ McLean Sept 1963|
|Season: ||Late Spring, early Summer|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Owen on Aug 1, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: Route schematic - the way we went.
A serious route on a remote peak. Loose in spots like most Sierra high mountain backcountry walls. This climb does not see many ascents. When Fred and I climbed it in the 90's we were the first entry in the new register - which was four years old. There are outstanding views north.
Approach West from East Lake up Ouzel Creek, with wonderful views of Ericsson Crags in particular. It's a long, long approach, about 3000ft in 3 miles. The first 3 pitches have loose blocks - so take care.
P1 (5.7) Climb the 1st chimney right of the central pillar.
P2 (5.8) Another chimney, cracks in the left wall, do not go deep (5.7) then The Black Chimney has a 5.8 exit move and is sparse on protection (crux) - pretty commiting. Can be wet. Once out of the chimney head up and tackle an overhang (also 5.8), careful with loose holds, to a welcome ledge and bomber hexes.
P3 - P4 (5.4) Easier climbing leads right and up slabs with more than one way to go.
P5 (5.4) Easy and up to a ledge which is traversed left to a belay. Snow, perhaps on the left.
P6 (5.6) A right-facing corner then step left up a 3" crack.
P7 (5.7) Cracks and ledges, almost to the summit ridge.
P8 (5.7) Probably the best pitch. Traverse right to a short corner, up this then right again. Step around in a very exposed position, then up past some loose spikes and through a small notch on the summit ridge between two large notches.
Descend down the East Ridge.
Start just right of the central pillar - snowline dependent.
Standard rack - some long slings, the route tends to wander, ice axe.
BETA PHOTO: Northeast Face as seen from the approach.