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Warrior 1
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Candy Shop, The T 
Northeast Face of Warrior I T 

Northeast Face of Warrior I 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1200', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Beckey, Ripley 1962
Page Views: 5,030
Submitted By: Josh Dulberger on Aug 13, 2007

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liz donley on warrior1, beckey route.

Route Description 

This is a bit of an adventure climb, I will describe it as best I recall, but we certainly followed our noses a bit.

Once in the Warrior I basin (a bit to the north/left of the peak), we scrambled up the grassy ledges rightward. Eventually, we were cliffed out and roped up:

P1 & P2: Follow chossy ramp system angling up and right (5.5ish maybe). We did this in 2 pitches, with a bit of simulclimbing, to a large ledge.

P3: The wall becomes more imposing and the route is not obvious here. The route is supposed to "use thin holds for 30 ft, then cross a slab to the left and climb a crack..." I climbed straight up into a dirty unprotected flake system (scary 10 and my second ripped off a nub and fell here), then traversed right on decent holds . There seemed to be other variations, either left or right of that line, presumably they are safer and a lot easier. There is an obvious niche about 120 ft up, that I did find without trouble.

P4. Out of the niche there are two obvious cracks, we went for the right of them, which wound up being wide and strenuous (9+). At the top, there was a good belay.

P5. The next pitch went up corner crack of a large block, to a nice landing area, which is tempting to belay on - but better to push on and extend the pitch, gaining the summit of the smaller pillar.

P6. The "solitary crack in the headwall" - this is the pitch you can fight over. 100 ft of 2 - 3" crack to a slab, at the top of which you can belay.

P7. We exited right, which was an awkward escape from the slab followed by a short step down, then 25 ft of ow/chimney. Then to the summit...

Descent was straight-forward, rapping down (2 ropes) to the climbers-left of the route.


Photos of Northeast Face of Warrior I Slideshow Add Photo
This is the gorgeous 6th pitch which ascends from the shorter tower onto the main formation.
This is the gorgeous 6th pitch which ascends from ...
Route Overlay, Northeast Face (IV, 5.9) of Warrior I
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay, Northeast Face (IV, 5.9) of Warrior...
The face with the thin black line traced on the route location
The face with the thin black line traced on the ro...
This is roughly the line, but realize that the first 5 pitches are ascending to the left of the smaller front pillar, eventually gaining its summit.
BETA PHOTO: This is roughly the line, but realize that the fir...
The first 5 pitches ascend the smaller tower on the left side, eventually gaining its summit. Pitch 6 leaves the small tower and climbs a straight sweet splitter system up to a slabby belay. Pitch 7 gains the summit.
BETA PHOTO: The first 5 pitches ascend the smaller tower on th...
Pitches 6&7
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 6&7
Warbonnet, Warrior I and Warrior II
Warbonnet, Warrior I and Warrior II
Warrior 1 East face with route visible
Warrior 1 East face with route visible
Warrior I as seen from north of camp.
Warrior I as seen from north of camp.
Pitch 3 and 4 line of ascent
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 and 4 line of ascent
Topo of the route
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the route
another view of the line
BETA PHOTO: another view of the line
warrior I
warrior I

Comments on Northeast Face of Warrior I Add Comment
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By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Aug 14, 2007

I got my full value adventure out of this one! I got off route on a pitch that put me on a very dirty 5.10R-X slab. The route climbs a very obvious gully-dihedral that leads to a large pedistal below the headwall where the real climbing starts. It's a good route, but I don't think it gets four stars.
By Josh Dulberger
Aug 20, 2007

Was that roughly the 3rd pitch? I also got off route before the open book with the "strenuous crack" - climbed yellowish loose and scary flakes that were 10ish and R/Xish (R in the backcountry may as well be X). The route stays to the left there, starts off in some grassy dihedral that is supposed to get better and be clean.

I am going to post a full description soon - just need to get back to my notes.
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Nov 19, 2007

Yeah, it was about the third pitch. I think i remember looking down at the grassy crack system that your talking about thinking that I should have taken that.
By Alec
Jul 7, 2009

Sweet description. Very informative
By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Jul 21, 2009

the point of this page is???
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

ya, adventurish for sure, but i recall some pretty obvious and secure climbing, until that headwall splitter petered out for some reachy moves high above a purple C3. I believe that the headwall pitch was the physical and psychological crux, and the chimney below it was easier, not 9+...
headwall pitch, Warrior 1 (5.9)
headwall pitch, Warrior 1 (5.9)
By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
Sep 5, 2011

Seems like every route description is a bit different for this one! My advice is to bring a 70 meter rope. The route makes more sense this way.
p-1 climb easy rock to rap anchor.
p-2 stretch rope to next rap anchor below "face hold traverse pitch"
p-3 right from rap anchor climb up cracks and face, traverse left after 40 feet or so and go left on thin, grassy ledge to splitter corner. climb past the small "horn" described by Kelsey and top the pitch to a grassy ledge. We had to simul with a 60 meter for about 20 feet. this pitch is well protected and quite good.
p-4 climb cracks and chimney for a ropelength to the base of the money pitch.
p-5 climb the money pitch, belay after a 100'
p-6 move right of the belay over a slab into hands. climb to the bad looking rap anchor and move right around the corner. this is not obvious, but do it. going straight up (the most logical choice) leaves one on top of a loose pillar looking at a dirty slab and pegmatite traverse (my stopper is up there if you want it). The moves around the corner from the rap anchor are exposed and awesome. belay in alcove after 150 feet.
p-7 climb cracks to the top for a ropelength. Be careful on 1st rap for loose rocks on the ledge just below. raps are straight forward.
This route is pretty awesome. if you are a 5.9 leader, i suggest the minor on haystack or ecclesiastes on mitchell to cut your teeth on. I am not one to rerate climbs, but it has "Beckey" and "Warrior" in the name........

Matt Hartman
Lander, Wy.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route, long pitches, sustained climbing, less traveled, loose rock so a bit more real alpine rock climbing than the trade routes. Matt's comments above were invaluable to finding a cleaner, more enjoyable line up the face, as there are many many possibilities.I will add a couple comments to his for those who wish more data. I also drew a topo that I have attached.

Approach: Walk towards Jackass pass area until you are to the left of the wall and can see the obvious ledge systems. Follow the talus and grassy ramps up then right to the end where curving flakes lead up and right to the first belay.

Descent: Rappel. 2 x 60 meter ropes mandatory or you can make more belays on the way down.

p-1 5.2 50 meters: climb easy rock to rap anchor.
p-2 5.7 60 meters: two options - left and up (we did not do, this is the rap line) versus continue up the flakes slightly right towards a huge block. Climb inside left of the block then step left to another lie off flake crack and continue to the large ledge. Move left to the belay around a slung pillar.
p-3 5.8 65 meters (simo-climb):Traverse right from rap anchor 10 meters and climb up cracks and face, traverse left after 40 feet or so and climb up some unprotected face and chicken heads to a large right leaning, right facing corner. Continue past the corner angling up and right on right leaning crack and flakes to a belay below a large left facing corner.
p-4 5.9 55 meters: Climb the crack, then a chimney then a fat crack/OW in a left facing corner (clean, sweet climbing) to a ledge, continue up a finger crack to second ledge, traverse right and step into a shaft to belay. This is a clean sustained pitch and is the crux of the route. Several 3-4 inch cams are quite neccesary. I had to shuffle them up as I went for the first 30 meters or so.
p-5: 5.4 20 meterw: climb 20 meters up the shaft to the top of the pillar, base of the "money pitch."
p-6 5.9 30 meters: climb the money pitch, belay after a 100' - Save a 2 inch cam (yellow camalot) for the belay up there.
p-7 5.7 50 meters: move right of the belay over a slab into a wide flake - pinch and step and lay off the flake to the bad looking rap anchor and move right around the corner. this is not obvious, but do it. belay in alcove after 150 feet.
p-8 climb cracks to the top for a ropelength.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

OK route; would be better if the first two pitches were cleaner/more enjoyable.

Matt & Tim: thanks for a good route description! We mostly followed your description except on p3, where we climbed straight up from the anchors into the bottom of the right leaning corner. This variation follows somewhat dirty, but protectable cracks at about 5.8 and makes more sense to me than going over to the right then back left.
On the last pitch (p8), we followed the left of two cracks: good climbing and not that easy; probably about 5.9 (wide hands).

Rack: I thought two #3 and one #4 (BD C4) were more than adequate for the crux OW, which is pretty civilized as OWs go (fun, even). You'll have to walk them up a bit but nothing unreasonable. So, I'd suggest a single rack from small nuts to #0.5 C4, then doubles from #0.75 to #3 C4, and one #4 C4, or equivalent.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

yes - I had 2 #3 and 1 #4 BD cams and that was perfect though I shuffled them up the fat crack which I agree was a very fun wide crack.