|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 800'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Don Wilson and Royal Robbins, September 1954|
|Submitted By:||Tradoholic on Jun 19, 2014 with updates from Donno and 1 more|
|Comments on Northeast Face East||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jul 17, 2014
|Did the route in May 2014. Sustained route. 5.6-5.7. The guidebook wasn't helpful so we went off track. Fun route!|
From: Newport Beach
Jul 6, 2015
I climbed this two days ago and found P3 to be stellar. Try to ignore the "Partners in Crime" bolts placed too close to this line and imagine how it was for Robbins in '54, first time up.
I was able to follow the topo from Vogel's '85 guide :-).
See route description under "updates".
From: Santa Monica, CA
Jul 30, 2015
There are some orphan pitons on p3 or p4. Just use your best judgement and don't follow the pitons to a blind corner thinking it's the route.
You will end up on a 40ft runout on slab, definitely above 5.7 grade.
I think I pooped my pants.
By Jo Nathan
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|Challenging route-finding here, especially in the dark. A few notes: P2 climbs a wide crack as listed, not a broken up flakey crack thing - a wide one. Don't go left to a R-facing dihedral. P2 ends on a no-shit, car-size ledge with a small 4in diameter tree AND a two bolt anchor. P1/2 cannot be linked together with a 70m. Should you desire to link P3/4, one MUST extend/direct one's traverse gear away from a couple perfectly rope-width-sized flake that will grab your rope and never let go. Head these lessons and you won't return to your car at 1:29am.|