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Routes in Bear Creek Spire
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Northeast Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 815 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Nov 5, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
105744237 is not currently applicable.
105744237 is not currently applicable.
Description
Don't let the rating on this route fool you into taking it too casually, this is a scary route to free solo, especially considering you have to go down it too. This route [may be] closed Feb 1 to Aug 1.
This route is on the right side of the northeast face, it reaches the summit ridge just south of the summit near a large pine tree. The route follows a crack/corner system that drops straight down from this pine tree. Start the route quite high up, only 150' or so below the saddle north of Bear Creek Spire, and traverse south (left) into the crack system. If you start lower down you will encounter 5.6 climbing.
The climb now consists of sections of dirt and trees alternating with friable rock covered by pine needles. The crux is a section of small roofs, consider carefully how you are going to downclimb this while going up. After you reach the big tree and ridge, there are still a few exciting exposed moves to reach the summit. I would have rated this route 5.4, but probably it was all the friable rock and dirt that was freaking me out.
Downclimb the route (or if you were smart and brought a rope, rappel the route from trees).
This route is on the right side of the northeast face, it reaches the summit ridge just south of the summit near a large pine tree. The route follows a crack/corner system that drops straight down from this pine tree. Start the route quite high up, only 150' or so below the saddle north of Bear Creek Spire, and traverse south (left) into the crack system. If you start lower down you will encounter 5.6 climbing.
The climb now consists of sections of dirt and trees alternating with friable rock covered by pine needles. The crux is a section of small roofs, consider carefully how you are going to downclimb this while going up. After you reach the big tree and ridge, there are still a few exciting exposed moves to reach the summit. I would have rated this route 5.4, but probably it was all the friable rock and dirt that was freaking me out.
Downclimb the route (or if you were smart and brought a rope, rappel the route from trees).
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