An excellent first climb, and pretty safe/fun, provided you don't bang your head on an overhead chockstone...
This climb is approached from the Amphitheatre Express Trail and is a left/East- facing chimney. It divides the tall North Face fo the First Pinnacle from the Shorter North Face of the East Bench.
Climb the Chimney/Dihedral past multiple squirms and stems around chocks to the top. You can anchor there or continue to the top of the FIrst Pinnacle via the slightly harder SE Arete.
Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping East from the fixed anchor up top of the SE Arete.
A standard set of cams and nuts + some 2' slings to avoid drag. A few large pieces might be good, or some tied-off chock stones.
BETA PHOTO: Squeeze thru this one - above the cave.
BETA PHOTO: 1st chockstone just hanging on ...
BETA PHOTO: Rapped from eyebolt with sling backup after downcl...
BETA PHOTO: Climbing to the top.... Lot of dried lichen on the...
|Comments on Northeast Chimney
|By John M Brooks|
From: Niwot, CO
Jul 1, 2007
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a
First chockstone made me nervous (really plans on staying there?). Did come across giant loose boulder at top. Rating 5.3 because of nice rest stops, but move through slot above cave really tough. First tried stemming on left side, but had better luck going right up the inside face on the right. Had to haul up my pack and rack from the cave (could not fit thru slot). Great views into the amphitheater and on top of East Bench. Downclimbed back to eyebolt and rapped (left backup sling).
|By Taylor Rose|
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 17, 2013
Not recommended for new leaders. This route is certainly in the NO FALL category. The gear was mostly slung chockstones, and the crux is only protected by a small nut.
That being said, this was a hell of an adventure, and I would highly recommend it for those seeking some spice.