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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 
2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 
D.A.'s Route T 
Dialysis Bag T 
Direct North Face T,TR 
Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  T 
Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 
Diversion T 
East Bench Dihedral T 
Finger Crack (onT-Zero) T,TR 
First Pinnacle SE Face T 
Inset, The T 
Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 
Juniper Crack (1st pinacle) T 
Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 
Macropsychotic T 
McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 
North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Northeast Chimney T 
Now and Zen T,TR 
Outside East Face T 
P.S. I'm Blonde T,S 
Pizza Pie Crack T 
Red Gully, The T,TR 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane S,TR 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 
Second Pinnacle East Face T 
Second Pinnacle South Face T 
Shortcut T 
Siberian North Face T,S 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) T 
Standard Inside East Face T 
T-Zero West Face T 
Tyrolean Traverse TR 
West Bench Dihedral T,TR 
West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 

Northeast Chimney 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Unknown to me
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Evaluating the big chockstone.
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    An excellent first climb, and pretty safe/fun, provided you don't bang your head on an overhead chockstone...

    This climb is approached from the Amphitheatre Express Trail and is a left/East- facing chimney. It divides the tall North Face fo the First Pinnacle from the Shorter North Face of the East Bench.

    Climb the Chimney/Dihedral past multiple squirms and stems around chocks to the top. You can anchor there or continue to the top of the FIrst Pinnacle via the slightly harder SE Arete.

    Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping East from the fixed anchor up top of the SE Arete.


    Protection 

    A standard set of cams and nuts + some 2' slings to avoid drag. A few large pieces might be good, or some tied-off chock stones.



    Photos of Northeast Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
    Squeeze thru this one - above the cave.
    BETA PHOTO: Squeeze thru this one - above the cave.
    1st chockstone just hanging on ...
    BETA PHOTO: 1st chockstone just hanging on ...
    Rapped from eyebolt with sling backup after downclimb from top of East Bench.
    BETA PHOTO: Rapped from eyebolt with sling backup after downcl...
    Climbing to the top.... Lot of dried lichen on the rock made the footing precarious enough to get someone climbing this route the first time excited.
    BETA PHOTO: Climbing to the top.... Lot of dried lichen on the...
    Comments on Northeast Chimney Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By John M Brooks
    From: Niwot, CO
    Jul 1, 2007
    rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

    First chockstone made me nervous (really plans on staying there?). Did come across giant loose boulder at top. Rating 5.3 because of nice rest stops, but move through slot above cave really tough. First tried stemming on left side, but had better luck going right up the inside face on the right. Had to haul up my pack and rack from the cave (could not fit thru slot). Great views into the amphitheater and on top of East Bench. Downclimbed back to eyebolt and rapped (left backup sling).

    By Taylor Rose
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 17, 2013

    Not recommended for new leaders. This route is certainly in the NO FALL category. The gear was mostly slung chockstones, and the crux is only protected by a small nut.

    That being said, this was a hell of an adventure, and I would highly recommend it for those seeking some spice.