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Northeast Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Etude T 
Flake Out T 
Flakes of Wrath T 
Flower of High Rank T 
Johnny Quest T 
Rock Hudson T 
Spooky Spike T 
Wet Dreams T 

Northeast Buttress  


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Location: 33.77158, -116.69558 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 96,757
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jan 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of the NE Buttress (Johnny Quest to Vici...

Description 

A handful of classic cracks are the highlight of this wall including Jonny Quest (10b), Etude (11a), and everybody's favorite Flower of High Rank (5.9)

Getting There 

When the approach trail hits the Weeping Wall, follow the trail along the base to the right for about 5 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Northeast Buttress:
Spooky Spike   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Flower of High Rank   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Johnny Quest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Flakes of Wrath   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Wet Dreams   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Etude   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Browse More Classics in Northeast Buttress

Featured Route For Northeast Buttress
Unknow climber at the business of Flower of Higher Rank.  Most people place pro in the crack the climber is in.  This works well too.

Flower of High Rank 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Buttress
The classic moderate crack at Suicide. You'll never tire of repeating this gem. The climb is located where the Northeast Face becomes the North face and is easily identified by the tree (the flower?) growing right in the middle of the crack about 70 feet up. The tree is historically littered with slings to help identify it. The climb is just to the left of a huge (undesirable looking) right facing corner.. and you actually start up this corner to get to the main crack.I prefer to do this climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Northeast Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
TODD SMITH
TODD SMITH
Hey Dude (5.12a), Etude (5.11a) and Flower of High Rank (5.9) <br />
BETA PHOTO: Hey Dude (5.12a), Etude (5.11a) and Flower of High...
Heard this route is named "Yours" a 5.7 pitch that is just right of Flower of high rank and which ends at ledge/P1 anchor for Graham Crackers.  Can top rope with a 70 meter rope
BETA PHOTO: Heard this route is named "Yours" a 5.7 pitch that...

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