|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Greg Collins, Mal Miller, Reave Castenholtz 1982|
|Submitted By:||jyount on Jul 29, 2010|
|Comments on Northeast Arete||Add Comment|
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Climb with a little confusion about the 3rd of the upper pitches.
We followed the description provided by the Bechtel guide (Cirque of TheTowers & Deep Lake: A Select Guide to The Wind Rivers' Best Rock Climbs). The verbal description of the 5 main pitches was quite reasonable. However, the photograph in that guide and in the beta photo for Sundance Pinnacle on MP show the Northeast Arete and Right Crack as completely separate routes than never overlap. The way we ended up going using Bechtel for guidance had us overlap with Right Crack for perhaps 40 feet then stepping right and up to the stance below the Northeast Arete crux pitch. If you didn't traverse right we could climbed directly up the Right Crack splitter pitch. Have people climbed this such that they didn't end up briefly overlapping with Right Crack?
By my reckoning the upper pitches went. 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.10-
From: New Hampshire
Aug 19, 2015
My partner and I did this last week. Great line. The 5.10c pitch has it all and doesn't feel that scary, there is no mention of a bolt or slab traverse in the book, so I was in for quite the surprise.
We also overlapped the Right Crack route for about 40 feet following the description in the guidebook. The first pitch we started up a corner that was thin at the bottom and a little dirty. This led up to a wider (3-4") crack at the top. Felt hard for 5.8, but I think it was the way. I trundled a microwave-sized hollow flake on the first pitch at the top of the corner, now there is a nice crimp where the death block was. After choosing where to start, the route-finding felt very straightforward.