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East Face
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Eagle Terrace 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kelly MacLeod, Josee MacLeod 2003
Page Views: 896
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 27, 2009

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The mighty Luke D gets ready to crush the 3rd pitc...

Description 

P1- A big hold off the ground leads to some hard feet and some small holds, punch it up over the small roof and to a anchor. Short 40ft. 5.10+

P2- Plug in some medium gear up the right facing corner and make a hard rock over move. At the top of the short crack section is a bolt. Clip this and route find around roofs clipping a couple more bolts to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. 90ft. 5.10-

P3- Climb up a runnel with opposing cracks, near the top of the runnel break over left and clip a bolt. Small nutting brings one to a right facing fist crack corner. After this the route is kinda weird as the bolt wants to pull you out left but there is a good corner to the right. Pull up onto a ?nice fat ledge?. 5.8+ 100ft.

I think this route stops here and the following pitches are a previously climbed route???

P4- Hop over the "chasm" to a curving crack, don't pass up gear and climb up to another large ledge and 2 bolt belay. 5.7 65ft.

P5- Climb up and around to the right of a big boulder on the ledge, after getting on top of this, a hand crack shoots up to another 2 bolt belay. 75ft. 5.7

P6- Climb the last pitch of Shovin' Moonful to the top. A fun and well protected O.W. leads to a single bolt and a boulder move (height dependent) to another 2 bolt anchor. 5.8+ 80ft.

Rap Walking the MoonBeam. 2 70M ropes will hit the ground from the summit.

We linked pitches 1 and 2, 4 and 5.

Location 

This route doesn't quite start on the ground. Instead walk around the bottom buttress to a small "sidewalk" about 50 Ft. up. There are currently 2 bolted lines off of this sidewalk. The NorthEast Arete starts on the well....far NorthEast corner.

Protection 

A rack up to #3 Camalot, set of nuts, QD's, slings nice.


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By James Garrett
Jan 30, 2009

Nice write up, nice route...I liked it enough to have climbed it 3 times now, last time with the Verm....(John Sherman), his first ever roped climb at Ibex! and he loved it. We started from the very lowest point on the ground heading up mixed (some bolts) climbing to the corners, quite far left of the arete. Quartermoon certainly offers diversity and entertainment. Thanks again
By James Garrett
Oct 13, 2013

The First Ascent was climbed by Kelly and Josee MacLeod from Canmore Alberta, Canada in April 2003 and they called it "Eagle Terrace", 5.10b. Climbed ground up. It is an excellent route.