Northeast Arete  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 6 pitches Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  ?????? Submitted By:  Orphaned on Jan 27, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The mighty Luke D gets ready to crush the 3rd pitc...

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Description 

P1- A big hold off the ground leads to some hard feet and some small holds, punch it up over the small roof and to a anchor. Short 40ft. 5.10+

P2- Plug in some medium gear up the right facing corner and make a hard rock over move. At the top of the short crack section is a bolt. Clip this and route find around roofs clipping a couple more bolts to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. 90ft. 5.10-

P3- Climb up a runnel with opposing cracks, near the top of the runnel break over left and clip a bolt. Small nutting brings one to a right facing fist crack corner. After this the route is kinda weird as the bolt wants to pull you out left but there is a good corner to the right. Pull up onto a ?nice fat ledge?. 5.8+ 100ft.

I think this route stops here and the following pitches are a previously climbed route???

P4- Hop over the "chasm" to a curving crack, don't pass up gear and climb up to another large ledge and 2 bolt belay. 5.7 65ft.

P5- Climb up and around to the right of a big boulder on the ledge, after getting on top of this, a hand crack shoots up to another 2 bolt belay. 75ft. 5.7

P6- Climb the last pitch of Shovin' Moonful to the top. A fun and well protected O.W. leads to a single bolt and a boulder move (height dependent) to another 2 bolt anchor. 5.8+ 80ft.

Rap Walking the MoonBeam. 2 70M ropes will hit the ground from the summit.

We linked pitches 1 and 2, 4 and 5.

Location 

This route doesn't quite start on the ground. Instead walk around the bottom buttress to a small "sidewalk" about 50 Ft. up. There are currently 2 bolted lines off of this sidewalk. The NorthEast Arete starts on the well....far NorthEast corner.

Protection 

A rack up to #3 Camalot, set of nuts, QD's, slings nice.