Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) 

FA:  FA: Young, Marshall, Lawrence, Whisnant (1968-1971 - sieged) FFA: Bob Rotert, 1977 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  10 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Season:  Spring, Fall Views: 768 page views Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on May 22, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Looking up at the 5.10c pitch. This is way easier...

Description 

Original Route, III, 5.11a or 5.10c, A0.

Approach: Follow the main Whitesides loop trail from the parking lot until a small/vague trail splits off to the right through the rhododendron heading downhill. Follow this trail down until it hangs a left. Follow the trail along the base of the cliff until you reach the "Great Gray Slab". At the right edge of the slab, look for the easiest path up to the tree ledge.

Pitch 1: Climb 5.7 slab passing one, maybe two gear placements, (about 1/2 of the way up) to a tree ledge, 5.7 R/X, 150 feet.
Pitch 2: Move belay left to a large flake. Climb short hollow flake over bulge. Run it out to a tree ledge up and left, 5.8 R, 100 feet.
Pitch 3: Move belay to left end of tree ledge. Climb short crack, traverse right to crack/flake, work up crack until you can step left to a ledge with 3 bolts, 5.7, 80 feet.
Pitch 4: The Sandbag Pitch. Climb very worn/polished corner up to a bolt. Easier climbing leads to another bolt at a ledge. 5.10c, 60 feet.
Pitch 5: Traverse left to a flake then up a very exposed face to a gear belay below flake/corner, 5.7 R, 75 feet.
Pitch 6: The Crescent Pitch. From the belay step right and out onto an exposed ledge, then up into an awkward crack. Continue up until you can step left and up to a bolted belay, 5.8+, 80 feet.
Pitch 7: The Crux Pitch/Bolt Ladder. Face climb or A0 through three bolts to easier climbing then to a hole and gear belay, 5.11a, 75 feet.
Pitch 8: The Traverse Pitch: Step down and work right traversing for about 150 feet, trying to get in some gear along the way, 5.4 R, 150 feet.
Pitch 9: Up from the belay and right to a grassy flake and a fixed pin, 5.6 R, 150 feet.
Pitch 10: Climb the flake, then up a lichen covered face to the summit, 5.6 R, 150 feet.


Descent: Follow loop trail (to the left) back to the car and enjoy a cold beer! You earned it!

Optional Finish:
Climb the last 3 pitches of Traditions:
Pitch 8: From the above mentioned "hole" at the end of pitch 7, follow 3 bolts up and left on a lichen-y ramp, belay on a ledge at a set of rap rings, 5.9, 60 feet.
Pitch 9: Walk left from the belay on a nice ledge to a "corner", face climb past a couple of bolts to a tree and belay, 5.10, 70 feet.
Pitch 10: Climb the path of least resistance until you reach to rhododendron then the summit railing, 5.8 R, 100 feet.

Protection 

Generally a lighter rack than normal - there isn't a ton of gear placements on the route - singles of blue, green, yellow, red alien, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5 (crux piece) friends, a few nuts, tri-cam or two, runners and a single lead line.

Note: Most of the route ratings for Whitesides can have an R or X rating added to them. And if the climbing is easy (5.7 - 5.8), plan on it being run out.

Add Photo Photos of Original Route (aka Gom Jabber)

Climbers down on the 5.7 pitch 5	John on the end of the 5.4 traverse	Starting up the run-out 1st pitch into a sea of mi...
Pitch 2 I think... circa 1994 Climber - Brian Talb...	Pitch 2 I think... circa 1994 Climber - Brian Talb...	Prepping for pitch 4... circa 1994 Climber - Brian...
Grabbin' gear on pitch 4... circa 1994 Climber - B...	Scoping out the beta on pitch 4… circa 1994 Climbe...	Making some progress on pitch 4... circa 1994 Clim...
1st pitch of the OR - 5.7 R/X - 140 feet and 1 bol...	Belay stance on The Original route	Mike on the first pitch of the O.R., Whitesides.
Mike on pitch 5 of the O.R., Whitesides.