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Stone Mountain South Face
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Mercury's Lead 

5.9 R

   

FA: Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan - 1974
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Season: fall, winter, spring
Views: 253 page views

Submitted By: nbrown on Jan 18, 2008


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Description 

Climb to the very high first bolt. Clip it with great relief, and continue up past one more bolt to the belay on "The Great Arch," or the belay atop "Storm In A Teacup." From the "Great Arch" belay, move out right past a short flake/crack (possible to get gear) and climb a long, but easier pitch past one bolt to an anchor just below the top (there may be one more bolt on this pitch, I can't remember).


Location 

Just to the right of "The Great Arch."


Protection 

Very light rack. Medium sized gear is optional for the flake on pitch 2.



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By Floridaputz
Apr 7, 2008

Standing on the ledge and looking up, like most stone routes, its hard to see any holds at all. Once you get going on this a pattern of small edges (I mean small) appear and lead to the first belay. There is one opportunity to place about a #2 cam about 3/4 of the way up this pitch. The rest goes easier..

By Bob Rotert
From: Broomfield, Co
Jun 2, 2008

nbrown thanks for the route write up. Just a little comment on the line & intentions for the way this route was first done. The intention of this line was to stay well right of the Great Arch & be an independent line. I wanted it to fill the Gap between the Great Arch & Rainy Day Women.

It was a very long time ago but what I remember of the first ascent was the climbing and line put me where I ended up placing the second bolt a little bit left of the first bolt. When observed like a directissima line. So to compensate for this, from the second bolt the first ascent line actually goes up & trends right, at about 1 o'clock from the second bolt. My intention was for the line to move further back to the right from the Great Arch. I believe I belayed from a crack/flake & somewhat of a ledge system at the end of this. Pitch 2 goes up this.

As I recall doing it this way, is definitely a bit more difficult then going straight up or a bit left from the second bolt, I remember a distinct crux high above the second bolt just before getting to easier climbing and the belay. At the time it was quite exciting/nerve wracking and as I was "sweating it out" I remember wishing I had wings on my feet to make it thru the moves. Hence the name "Mercury's Lead".

As I mentioned it was a long time ago but as I recall we didn't belay for any pitches in the Arch for this route...