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Stone Mountain South Face
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Entrance Crack 

5.4 R

   

FA: George DeWolfe, John Thorne ('65)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 546 page views

Submitted By: Eric Delynko on Oct 15, 2007


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Entrance Crack


Description 

This route (apparently) is the easiest way to the tree ledge and the climbs that leave from it. It begins on some easy face climbing following a crack that tends left. Once at the large tree, follow the offwidth crack (protectable by some big bros or a #6 Camalot) to the Tree Ledge. Set up your own anchor to belay. Two ropes to get down from here are necessary.

People comfortable with easy, unprotectable, friction climbing will find the face on the right of the crack the best route up. However, those not comfortable with this style will likely find the runout a bit heady and the offwidth a huge pain.


Location 

This route is located about 75-100 ft. to the right of U-slot and about 25 ft. to the left of The Pulpit. It can be identified by two cracks (one from the ground going to the right, one from the ground to the left) that meet at a big pine tree. Descend using the rap anchors near the top of the route.


Protection 

Some slings and a couple cams at the beginning...some extra large stuff for the offwidth.



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By nbrown
From: western NC
Nov 8, 2007

There is a good placement on the right side of the offwidth, just below the crux. Look hard for the short red alien size crack. Many times, I've seen people solo this route carrying packs and wearing sandals. Though I still think this is the hardest 5.4 that I've ever done.

By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
May 12, 2009

As of about ten years ago, there was a hangerless 1/4" bolt a few feet right of the crack part way up the off-width. I have no idea if it would hold a fall, but it made me feel (marginally) better to sling it with a small nut on the way up this otherwise unprotected pitch.

By gripster
Sep 2, 2009

I remember getting either a #1 or #2 in right before the crack begins to widen, not much else though. Once you step out of the crack onto the slab it seems to get easier for the final run-out.