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Stone Mountain South Face
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Yardarm 

Dirty Crack 

5.8

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 249 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007


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Description 

At North Carolina's home of scary runout slab climbing, Dirty Crack is one of a handful of routes that's well-protected from start to finish. That doesn't mean it's easy; there's some thin moves midway up that might make you want to grab one of the trees growing out of the crack. "Dirty Crack" may have been an apt name in the past, but in fact this is a clean route that's a worthwhile lead.

Starting at the obvious right-facing dihedral, follow the thinning crack up past a couple of trees to the Tree Ledge.


Location 

Starts below the far right end of the Tree Ledge at a right-facing dihedral. 10' right of Entrance Crack. Rap on two ropes from rap rings at the top of Father Knows Best or any of the other Tree Ledge rap anchors.


Protection 

A good range of gear up to 4" (big pieces mainly near the start); there's also trees to sling. Anchor to trees at the top.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Apr 4, 2007

Great climb, almost totally out of character with the rest of Stone Mountain. A tenuous move or two where the crack is really thin adds to the spice.