Well-racked with gear that he mostly won't need, I...
Description
When you've done the well-protected approach routes like Block Route and Dirty Crack, Crystal Lizard is a great climb to up the ante. As you approach the anchors, try not to think about the fact that you're runout maybe 60' above your last bolt.
Climb past the tree pods (on your left) up and right to a bolt about 30' up. Carefully traverse back left to small dikes above the last tree, or for extra spice, go straight up over the bolt. Continue up to a large left-facing flake; climb the flake a short distance, then surmount it and move up and right to another bolt. Runout the finish to the Rice Krispies anchors at the Tree Ledge.
Location
Starts right of U Slot, about 10' left of Rice Krispies; look for trees growing out of pods in the rock. Two-rope rap from ring anchors.
Protection
Two bolts; placements for a small to medium cam under the big flake (extend it well). Shares anchors with Rice Krispies.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Apr 4, 2007
The placement of the first bolt on Crystal Lizard is kind of strange, well right of the natural line of the climb. I can only figure it was put there to keep you from hitting the trees if you take a fall above the first clip, but it makes for some awkward moves at the start. The rest of the climb is excellent.
I agree, the first bolt is misleading. First time I climbed this route I was lured into climbing up and right along a faint seam into a left facing crack 65 feet off the deck right of Rice Crispies. Don't do this, unless you like long runouts with a definite groundfall. The seam runs out and you WILL hit the ground if you fall before getting pro in the crack. FYI someone chopped the first bolt of RC.
Climbing it a second time I went left after the bolt, a much better idea for the 5.8 leader heading to the Great Arch or No Alternative.
Stone Mountain South Face
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