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Stone Mountain South Face
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U Slot 

5.7+ PG13

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 140 feet
Views: 374 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: The base of Stone Mountain, these are some of the ...


Description 

One of a number of ways to get to the Tree Ledge for the big climbs, this is an interesting route in its own right. Starting up a left-facing corner and hand crack, the climbing is well protected until you're about two-thirds of the way up. From there, a 30-40' runout section will get you to a shallow overhang, where you can thankfully place a cam before pulling the balancy move onto more friction to a short finish at bolted rap anchors on the Tree Ledge. A good warmup for things to come!


Location 

Starts just above the boulder field at the base of the mountain, about 30' right of Block Route. Scramble up to a left-facing corner with trees at the base. You'll need two ropes to rap down.


Protection 

Medium gear; bolted anchors at the top.



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By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 26, 2007

Not knowing where the route actually went, I aimed up and left from the starting crack toward what I thought looked like a "U" slot in the overlap. I plugged a cam below and left of the notch and pulled the overlap with a big high-step and a good left-hand crimp. A bit heady and with a bad slab fall if you blow that move, this variation isn't any harder than the 5.8 rating given the standard route.