No Alternative 

FA:  George DeWolfe, Robin Wright, John Palmer - 1965 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.5 [details] Length:  3 pitches, 400 feet Views: 697 page views Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 16, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Off to the races on P2 of No Alternative. Photo b...

Description 

Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, its easy friction and great exposure.

P1 -- follow a left-facing corner/flake to its end at a bolted belay, about 200' (some climbers break this into two pitches).

P2 -- go straight up the moderate face to a bolt (75') and continue another 75' to another bolted belay.

P3 -- continue up easier terrain to trees at the summit.

Location 

At the right end of the Tree Ledge, belay at the base of a ramp that slants up and right to where it intersects with a left-facing dihedral; if you're worried about rope length, you can scramble up the ramp to the corner and belay there for P1, anchoring at a tree. Rap down with double ropes or walk off using the summit trail.

Protection 

Medium gear on P1; one quickdraw on P2. Bolted belays.

Add Photo Photos of No Alternative

Ryan follows on P2 of No Alternative.	Fran pulls a lieback on the nice P1 dihedral on No...	BETA PHOTO: No Alternative 1st pitch goes up the flake in the ...