Off to the races on P2 of No Alternative. Photo b...
Description
Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, its easy friction and great exposure.
P1 -- follow a left-facing corner/flake to its end at a bolted belay, about 200' (some climbers break this into two pitches).
P2 -- go straight up the moderate face to a bolt (75') and continue another 75' to another bolted belay.
P3 -- continue up easier terrain (5.3, unprotected) to rap anchors below the trees at the summit.
Trivia: the original name of this route was Punt Flake.
Location
At the right end of the Tree Ledge, belay at the base of a ramp that slants up and right to where it intersects with a left-facing dihedral; if you're worried about rope length, you can scramble up the ramp to the corner and belay there for P1, anchoring at a tree. Rap down with double ropes or walk off using the summit trail.
Protection
Medium gear on P1; one quickdraw on P2. Bolted belays.
By mbuntaine From: Durham, NC Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.5
Having never climbed No Alternative, we were told to expect some serious runouts on P2 above the main crack/corner system. In reality there are 2-3 overhangs that will take a wide range of gear from micro-cams to #1 C4 cams. You are really never more than 25' out from your last piece if you bring a light rack. Not as scary as we were led to believe.
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