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Stone Mountain South Face
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The Great Arch 

5.5

   

FA: Bill Chatfield, Fess Green - 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 1,312 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006


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A pair of climbers move out on the next pitch of G...


Description 

The Great Arch is probably the most prominent and noticeable feature on the face of Stone Mountain. It's a huge right-facing dihedral that arches almost to the summit of the mountain from the Tree Ledge. It's also one of the earliest routes here, put up in the days before cams and sticky rubber climbing shoes.

Unlike the typical runout Stone Mountain friction climb, The Great Arch is one of the few climbs here that has plentiful protection. A real classic, it's very popular and guaranteed to be crowded on weekends -- so arrive early to avoid long waits.

P1 -- starting at the base of the arch, climb the dihedral using the hand/finger crack and good friction footwork to a bolted belay. 5.5, ~150'.
P2 -- continue up the crack and dihedral, slinging trees for pro if you like, to a bolted belay. 5.5, ~150'.
P3 -- follow the diminishing arch to its end on easy ground. Clip a single bolt and finish at the final bolted anchors. 5.3, ~120'.


Location 

To get to The Great Arch, gain the Tree Ledge using any of the approach routes. The start is easy to locate at the left end of the Tree Ledge. Rap off with double ropes or walk off the trail from the summit.


Protection 

As noted, this route is easy to protect with a standard rack (medium cams or passive pro) and some slings for the trees that grow out of the crack. Belays and anchors at the top are bolted.



Add Photo Photos of The Great Arch
I lead pitch 3 of the classic Great Arch at Stone Mountain.

I lead pitch 3 of the classic Great Arch at Stone ...

Unknown climber on the great arch

Unknown climber on the great arch

The Great Arch

BETA PHOTO: The Great Arch

Tobin Petty leading the 1st pitch, May 2006

Tobin Petty leading the 1st pitch, May 2006

Jenalyn Petty emerging out from final summit pitch, May 2006

Jenalyn Petty emerging out from final summit pitch...

Ryan cruising up p-3.

Ryan cruising up p-3.