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DescriptionThe south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat. Getting ThereAfter entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
The Great Arch 5.5 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet
No Alternative 5.5 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet
U Slot 5.7+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet
Block Route 5.8- PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
The Pulpit 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II
Crystal Lizard 5.8+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Mercury's Lead 5.9 R Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
No Alternative 5.5 PG13 NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
Another Stone Mountain classic, No Alternative is a great place to get a taste of the infamous runout climbing here without feeling like you're gonna die! The first half of the climb is like Great Arch -- it'll take all the pro you care to place. The upper half is a different story: pure friction climbing with one bolt 75 feet above the belay; you might be able to get a small cam in under one or two thin overhangs. At 5.5, though, i...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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