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The Fabled North Face
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Black Bear Buttress 
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Un-named wall - - Right of Desperado (middle wall) 

The Fabled North Face


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Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Oct 1, 2007
Administrator: saxfiend
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part of The Main Wall from the Cougar Crag. Eagle...


Description 

Most southern climbers are familiar with Rumbling Bald, one of the best winter areas around due to its low elevation and south facing aspect. The cliff seems to stretch on for a mile or more when viewed from the tourist meccas of Chimney Rock and Lake Lure. However, the other side of the mountain has just as much rock and is climbable in the summer when the south side is a blast furnace. 99% of routes were done in ground up style. Let's keep it that way please.
I like secret places. I am not posting this stuff due to ego. The north face has no publicly documented history. Since most of this rock will be in the newly formed state park I felt it important to finally document areas so we could show the powers that be that there is a long rich history of climbing here and that climbing should be an allowed activity once the management plan is in the works.


Getting There 

Currently there are limited ways to get there. Either know someone who lives in the gated Fairfield golf community at the base of the walls or hike around or over the top from the south side. This situation should change over the coming years as this area will be inside the newly created Hickory Nut Gorge State Park.



Featured Route For The Fabled North Face
Fantastic face climin.

Reckless Criminal 5.11  North Carolina : Rumbling Bald : ... : Desperado Wall
The literal meaning of "Desperado". Climb the direct line right of the black streak to a bowl. Take some gear up to a .75 camalot. The edges, mostly invisible from the ground, are incredible. One person, who ought to know, says this is the best 5.11 face in the state. Tim may have added more pitches later on....[more]


Add Photo Photos of The Fabled North Face
Cougar Crag (left) Main Wall (center)<br />Desperado Wall (right)

Cougar Crag (left) Main Wall (center)
Desperado Wa...


Cougar Crag (far left) Main Wall (left)<br />Desperado Wall (center)

Cougar Crag (far left) Main Wall (left)
Desperado ...


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By Nick Stayner
From: Jackson, WY
Oct 1, 2007

I was wondering when somebody might post up on this. I've heard rumors...

By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Oct 1, 2007

The rumors are true.....

By Ben Lyon
From: Birmingham, AL
Nov 22, 2007

How would this place be in January? Good work on all the new climbs.

By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Dec 4, 2007

Thanks Ben. Answer is... pretty darn cold. This is a spring/summer/fall area. Sun does not hit it in winter. Go to the other side.