Climb the 5.8 wide crack to a stance behind the pedastel. Move up and left into the wide left leaning crack. A 4 and 4 1/2 camolot will protect the moves out of it. Exit the crack and move up and right to a bolt. Go straight up on sparse gear(tcus) and one more bolt to a run out 5.8 section. Step through this to reach a double bolt anchor. Either top out on the buttress or rap off on 2 ropes.
Location
Starts right of Space Monkey.
Protection
Mixed; gear and two bolts. Double-bolt anchor at the top.
The part above the last bolt is not runout. Tim Fisher discovered a nice small gear placement that I missed on the FA. The wide crack is cleaning up to, though it does nothing for the pump. 1 60 m will get you down on 2 raps.
Nice route Tim. Interesting (not to mention very hard) fist to offwidth crack, although not in the conventional sense, since there is no way to chicken wing or hide half inside as one would on a vertical crack. The face above is quite a bit of fun! Very well featured rock. I'm gonna have to give the redpoint another hard effort soon.
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