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Flapping.../Nuclear arms area
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Digital Disco 
Flailing in the breeze 

Digital Disco 

5.11+

   

FA: Nathan Brown, Bruce Burgess, Tim Snyder
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 115 feet
Season: winter, early spring
Views: 244 page views

Submitted By: Tim Snyder on Feb 14, 2008


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Nathan Brown on his way to the high point on day 1...


Description 

Some of your digits may have a hangover after this one.

Hard crimping and a technical balance move will lead to the 3rd bolt(5.11+,12-). Move right then up and left. Great gear will lead up and right to another bolt. Follow crimps and bolts past another cruxy section(well protected). Climb immaculate 5.10 face on small gear to the last bolt. Bust the last disco move up and right then straight up for the last piece which protects the traverse over to the Flailin in The Breeze anchors. You can lower off with a 70 meter. A 60 m will require a top belay. Rap back down to the Nuclear Arms rap tree. Rap back down the Gulley.


Location 

This route starts at a small ledge about 100 ft up the 5th class gulley which seperates the Slab Accurate wall and the Nuclear Arms wall. Scamper up the gulley or climb Nuclear Arms to the standard pine tree finish and move down to the small ledge.


Protection 

8 bolts, purple camalot, double tcus to 1, or equivalent size c3's, medium copper steel rps, yellow tcu or hybrid alien to protect the traverse to the anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Digital Disco
Bruce Burgess, drilling off a hook placement.

Bruce Burgess, drilling off a hook placement.

Tim Snyder, drilling the third bolt.

Tim Snyder, drilling the third bolt.

Bruce at the "reachy" crux.  Photo by Dennis Merrit.

Bruce at the "reachy" crux. Photo by Dennis Merri...

Tim at yet another reachy crux move.  Phot by Dennis Merrit.

Tim at yet another reachy crux move. Phot by Denn...

Bruce climbing, Dennis M. "shooting".

Bruce climbing, Dennis M. "shooting".

Bruce up high on the first day.

Bruce up high on the first day.