Flailing in the breeze 

FA:  Nathan Brown, Phil York New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Season:  winter Views: 204 page views Submitted By: nbrown on Nov 16, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Classic Rumbling Bald face climbing with a touch o...

Description 

This route climbs the white face up and left of "Nuclear arms". P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay. P-2 Climb up the tree and sling the top for pro, and then step back down to the face hold out right. Crank a long move on good holds, and work your way to the first bolt. Move out right and continue up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple pieces of gear (5.10ish). There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground). P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree". This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history. It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.

Location 

Start either in "Nuclear arms", or skip this pitch by climbing the 4th class ramp to the belay/rap tree. This ramp starts out just to the right of the start for "Flapping in the breeze".

Protection 

Light rack for the face.

Add Photo Photos of Flailing in the breeze

Phil Y. following the pitch.