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Dixie Reality
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Dixie Reality 

Dixie Reality 

5.12

   

FA:  Sean Cobourn, Buddy Brasington, and Eddie Medina 2006 FFA: Shannan Milsaps 4-27-08
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 368 page views

Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Jan 8, 2008


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Shannon Millsaps starting his voyage.


Description 

Face climb up face from the left to crack through roof. Launch out the roof to the end. Turn the corner on the tip and pull up onto face. Hard moves lead to easy scrambling to a tree up top.


Location 

between Shumont Mountain and Hanging Chain area


Protection 

takes multiple #3 camalots and other gear.



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Ed Williams nearing the crux

Ed Williams nearing the crux


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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 8, 2008

I blatantly aided the thing. Ed and Shannon (see photos) are making great strides towards freeing it.

By david Adkins
Feb 20, 2008

I'm sorry, and I'm sure that I'll get an ear-full but what part of that roof is 5.10?

By Jacob Neathawk
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 18, 2008

has this route been freed yet? looks amazing

By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 9, 2008

David- the approach up to the roof is 5.10 and most of moves out the roof itself are not that hard; individually. The jams are pretty good, the pro is bomber and the fall is clean. Ed predicts it will be "only" 11+. Probably will go soon. We just haven't been back lately.

By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 27, 2008

Ed Williams, Shannon Millsaps and I went in there today in pretty iffy weather. In one of the finest displays of climbing I have ever witnessed, Shannon fired the coveted FFA on his first try since last year. Let's say it is 5.12.
For future suitors, bring two fat ropes and two belayers. The rope drag after you finally pull the lip is heinous. Instead of a Z drag, think "W". Use one rope for the roof. Pull up, get some gear using the second rope and untie the first one.