P1- Finess your way up the wide crack. Where you want a #5 Camalot you can clip the third bolt on Frankenberry to your right instead. Where obvious, step left onto the fun face passing a bolt and avoiding some nastiness. Face climb up to the halfway ledge and belay in the obvious arching crack. 5.9+? P2- Climb the big hand crack up to and through the overlap and then cut right to the Frankenberry belay bolts. 5.8+? Rappell the route with two ropes.
Location
The formerly vegetated wide crack between Breakfast of Champions and Frankenberry.
Protection
Up to # 5 Camalot is nice, if you have one (we did not). Up to #4 will do. 2 bolts (one is third bolt on Frankenberry).
This is the last of the routes to ascend the formerly poison ivy choked wall right of Frosted Flake. A handful of us spent several days over the last few years excavating 5 decent routes and suffered the itchy consequences. This one will clean up nicely after a couple ascents and a couple rain storms. Look out for some stray loose stones on P2, it is still a tad crispy up there.
Climbed this last weekend...good route that doesn't require the wide crack technique it may look like it needs. I used a 4 and a 5. Also, after clipping the bolt, I headed left to the bolts on Breakfast of Champions to lower off of. Sean and all, thanks for cleaning it up.
Jeff, I think that you missed the best part... the upper hand crack. Fun route, hopefully the PI won't overtake it again. I used a new #4 camelot deep in the wide section, but a #5 would have been much better if I'd had it with me. The last overlap in the crack was a bit tricky, especially since it was damp at the time.
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