This overlooked route is worth the effort for the NC climber, though it can be exciting without some specific gear beta. Best to use double ropes at the start and then release one when the 1st bolt is reached.
Climb up the chimney placing the #3 camalot. Move up to a stance and locate a great medium stopper. Step back down and move across the chimney onto the face. Dance over to the 1st bolt. Clip 2nd rope and release 1st rope. Move straight up to the 2nd bolt. Climb up (blue tcu here) and then around left onto the delicate face and stance. Get Ready.
Fire in the key sideways #5 WC rock. Make sure it's good! Move up on delicate crimps and layaways to a right foot stance. Look up and fire in that pink tricam (tape the sling for stiffness, its a high placement). Climb up and right (crux) to easier ground and a stance. Medium BD cams here. Climb up and left to the fixed anchor. Inner Peace is now yours!
Location
As you turn the corner past the cereal buttress, on the way to the cereal wall, look up and left. You will see a chimney and a clean looking face. Start in the chimney.
Protection
2 bolts, pink tricam, #5 wild country rock, medium BD stoppers, #3 camalot, blue tcu, medium cams for the top. Fixed stainless anchor at the top.
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