Aunt Jemima 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Sean Cobourn on Jul 26, 2008 |
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the route's namesake.
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Description Start on the mega-classic Shredded Wheat. Where it follows the left crack, take the right hand tips crack to a scary looking flake which is followed to the right and up to a small roof. Finish at the Shredded anchors. Still waiting on a redpoint ascent.
Location Just right of Shredded Wheat at left side of Cereal Buttress.
Protection small stuff, one bolt where the flake would probably break.
By Edward Medina Administrator From: Charlotte, NC Jan 31, 2009
| FFA: Erin Wilson. January 2009. |
By Sean Cobourn From: Gramling, SC Feb 4, 2009
| Aaron is a dude, |
By Edward Medina Administrator From: Charlotte, NC Feb 5, 2009
| And quite the dude indeed. However, he spells his name Erin. |
By Brian Abram From: Columbia, SC Oct 18, 2011
| I hesitate to post this, but this line was for sure led prior to 2009. In Spring 2007, I top roped it after an unsuccessful redpoint attempt on Shredded Wheat. For me, I thought it was easier than SW, so I then led it, placing gear in that flake. I had assumed that either this line had been done previously, or that it was not distinct enough from SW to be considered another route. I talked to Stephen Scoff about it at the time, as he has more info about route history than anyone I know personally. At that time, I wanted to know his opinion on whether it "counted" as a redpoint of Shredded Wheat. Even though he hadn't heard anything about it, I didn't really consider that maybe I had been the first. I have since referred to it as Shredded Wheat Right Variation |
By Edward Medina Administrator From: Charlotte, NC Oct 18, 2011
| I heard something to the same effect from Buddy Brasington, but have yet to find any information about who the true First Ascencionist is. Should probably have Sean change the route information to reflect this. |
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