Jeff M. considers a final placement before launchi...
Description
This beautiful flake formation will test your willpower, your stamina and your ability to jam your feet into cracks and still get them back out. For the grade, Frosted Flake is a strenuous lead.
Starting up a corner on easy ground, move up to a roof and traverse left until you get to the end of the roof where it turns into a left-facing corner/flake. Power up the corner (crux) on laybacks and the occasional jam, and on to the top.
Location
Starts about 40' right of Fruit Loops. Rap off the anchors.
Protection
Doubles in the medium to large cams (3-3.5"), otherwise small to medium gear. Bolted anchors.
I thought this felt more like a 5.9-, but I have done a lot of crack climbing. I have medium size hands for a girl and was getting big cups and awesome feet. The upper wide section can be laid back as there are feet on the wall to make it easier...
Agreed. Cracks are generally a rare occurrence here in NC, so most of them inevitably get rated harder than they actually are. Most people lieback that thing... That probably is a 9+, or harder.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Apr 29, 2008 rating: 5.9-
First time I led it, in fall '05, I liebacked the whole thing and nearly wet myself running it out--it's hard to stop and place gear that way! After going to Yosemite last summer (and the T Wall a bunch), I came back and jammed the hell out of it! Really awesome locker hands and cups with great body smears and some stems. This way is probably 5.9-. Liebacking the whole thing is hard.
awesome route... definitely pump through the crux section after pulling the roof and just GO till you get to better holds to make your next gear placement! It's really not that hard!
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