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Fruit Loops 

5.7+

   
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FA: Brad Shaver, Grover Cable - 1976
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 160 feet
Views: 756 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 16, 2006


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Working through the steep opening moves on Fruit L...


Description 

This is an outstanding route that any leader will enjoy, even if it's below your normal lead level. It's almost three climbs in one: crack climbing; chimney; and face climbing. Many people skip the second pitch, but it's lots of fun and very worthwhile.

P1 - Start at a somewhat steep crack, working your way up with jams and some face holds. The going quickly gets easier/less steep, continue past some flake moves to the base of a chimney with bolted belay anchors (80').

P2 - Climb the chimney (well-protected), continuing until it begins to narrow, then make balancy moves out onto the face to the left. Continue up the low-angled face to the top (80').


Location 

Starts just right of a big offwidth crack, about 50' right of Shredded Wheat. Rap from the slings/rap rings at the top.


Protection 

Small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Bolted anchors at the belay, fixed slings/rap rings at the top.



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Sweetie, does this crack make my butt look- never mind. Belayer's view of P1. The chimney, P2, is to the right of the helmet. It was described to me as "it's sooo cool, when you come out, it's like getting birthed".

BETA PHOTO: Sweetie, does this crack make my butt look- never ...

Unknown climber leading Fruit Loops

Unknown climber leading Fruit Loops


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By Jeremy P Franz
From: Medina, Ohio
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.7

Great Route that keeps you on your toes. Must do if your in the area.