Climb up the initial corner system of Shadowdance. At the sloping ledge system, traverse left and up towards an arete. Getting good pro before the exposed arete is awkward and strenuous, but mandatory. No pro at the crux, but you're better off blasting through and getting solid pro up higher. Enjoy the position.
Location
Same start as Shadowdance. A short rap or down climb will get you down to the Nutsweat anchor which can be rapped just barely on a single 60-meter rope.
Protection
Small brass and steel nuts are needed to protect the falls at the crux. Nuts and small to mid-sized cams will protect the rest of the route. Double ropes are helpful.
Considering it is a bit serious, this route has been repeated many times. I think it is that good. It is easy to back off if you don't feel up to the bidness.
RSS Feed
