Climb the right-facing crack around an over-hang. Seems like the hard move is getting started. Wander up following a crack system then right around a roof then back left to a tree ledge. Belay. Climb a chimney or a number of easy variations to the "Crow's Nest."
Location
To the right of Sentinel Buttress. Look for the nice looking crack with an overhang on the toe of the buttress. Just to the left of a cave.
Protection
NC rack. Two ropes. Rap from atop the "Crow's Nest."
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jul 6, 2009 rating: 5.9+
The first pitch is great; the opening moves are hard and non-intuitive. I think the old Kelley guide's rating of 5.9 is right on.
I thought P2 was pretty crappy by comparison with the first pitch. The so-called "chimney" described in the Select guide is actually a wide crack choked with vegetation, which my partner and I avoided entirely.
Opening is indeed the business - getting around to/up and over the roof. Mercifully it protects well with small .3/.4? BD cams and a bomber nut protects the pull over move. From there it's fairly casual by comparison. Traverses pretty far left to the chimney when you reach the top of the main crack.
The second pitch has it's moments, and there are several lines possible. The most enjoyable that I've found is to go straight up the overhanging bit after the crappy chimney. It's pretty easy but is quite exposed for the grade - maybe 5.5? Sort of Gunks-esque.
RSS Feed
