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Wild Kingdom 

5.11d PG13

   

FA: FA: McMillan, Rotert '78. FFA: McMillan, Robinson '79
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c/d [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 453 page views

Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jan 12, 2009


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Ben on the epic on-sight attempt.


Description 

Mega Classic both for the climbing and the history. A must do in NC.

P1: climb up the low angled rock to the ledge below the pin stack. Climb past the pin stack up the dihedral past 2 bolts and then pull the roof. Traverse right to a stance. Climb easier funky rock with sparse pro, wandering right then left to the belay under the Billboard.
P2: Climb the bolted Billboard section to a crack with gear. Make sure you get some good gear here. Either finish left (5.8 PG13) or do Tim Fisher's 5.12a(5.10R) optional finish (looks GREAT).


Location 

Fire Wall. It will be obvious what you climb.


Protection 

Some bolts, some pins, plenty of spice. Bring brass nuts, offsets if you got em, and microcams, in addition to a normal rack. Not many larger cams on the route. There is a bolted anchor to lower off after the dihedral on P1 (nice crag-style route), or another bolted anchor for the belay under the P2 Billboard (if you're going all the way).



Photos of Wild Kingdom Slideshow Add Photo
Stephan LaPierre on Wild Kingdom in 1988. photo PJ

Stephan LaPierre on Wild Kingdom in 1988. photo PJ

Stephan LaPierre belaying partner on Billboard pitch, 1988. photo PJ

Stephan LaPierre belaying partner on Billboard pit...


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By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Apr 30, 2009

one of the finest routes anywhere.

By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.11+ PG13

This route should be getting done every weekend. Both pitches great.