This is a great route that is often overlooked due to some obscure pro. The route climbs in two distinct sections. After gaining the route (see protection) a relatively short crux trough the dihedral gets you to some jugs at the roof. This is followed by some intense face climbing to the traverse and the anchors (on Reckless Abandon. This was the original route done by Fischer (12a). The route feels short, but when you lower off you see that it takes a full 60. The direct finish pushes strait up the face to a second bolt and a jug. From hear a hard move to an undercling gets you to a second anchor.
Location
Between Reckless and Death Wish
Protection
This route has some mystique due to the use of a removable bolt. It is recommended that you use double ropes (pro on Nut Sweat) because of the unprotectable traverse (5.10). There is some gear after the traverse and the bolt is at the stance. From here you place the RB and clip a fixed wire. After the crux, gear and two sets of rusty old pins takes you to the face. Small wire to a brand new bolt. Not so bad. The direct finish is definitely the way to go with one more bolt and an old anchor.
Just got back from the Red, this could/would be 12+ there all day. Maybe we were too hasty in our downgrading? 12c could be reasonable for the direct finish ("New World Man")
If you are really solid at the grade you might not need the RB- there is a bomber bolt about four feet below it to keep you off the deck- you would have to commit to the layback to clip the fixed wire, which seems bomber but is definitely small (#5 BD Steel)- the next pro is pretty damn far away though- might make the lower section more like 12a PG13...
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