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Moore's Wall
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Dolphin's Head 

5.7

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 574 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007


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Description 

This obscure route doesn't get a lot of attention but is well worth seeking out. See if you think the namesake feature really looks like a dolphin's head.

Climb the face following crack systems and easy jugs, then angle up and left to the "head." Pull this roof move and finish at a ledge.

The old Kelly guide lists this route at 5.6, a bit of a sandbag.


Location 

Starts about 100' left of Welcome to Moore's on a clearing above the cliff trail. Scramble climber's left to a rap station (webbing and rap rings slung on a big chockstone).


Protection 

Small to medium cams and passive gear; build a gear anchor at the top.



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By boo
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.6

This route is totally 5.6. To make it 5.7 is taking it out of context with the rest of Moore's Wall.

By Dave Wise
From: Pinehurst, NC
Jul 19, 2009

Excellent route. The start and the finish are fantastic and well worth it. The middle section is lackluster 4th class/easy 5th and covered in lichen, but the beginning and end of the climb make up for it.