With its crux down low, Nuclear Crayon is a bit of a one-move wonder for the grade. Nice face climbing with adequate protection.
Below the face left of Almost Seven, climb up a left-facing flake, then through a thin sequency section (crux); a bolt should protect the moves. Continue up the face on solid holds with small pro, finishing at the Almost Seven belay.
Location
Starts about 20' left of Almost Seven; rap from fixed gear.
Our guidebook showed two bolts, but there is only one. The protection is barely adequate. There is definitely potential for a big fall in several places on the climb. This is a good TR after climbing Golden Earing, but hard to recommend as a lead climb unless very comfortable at the grade. The rappel is 100 feet.
By Scott Gilliam From: Raleigh, NC Feb 5, 2009 rating: 5.10 PG13
I think it is a bit of a misnomer to call it a one move wonder for the grade. The crux section is short, but harder than 10b. RE: gear, there is small gear (micronuts) available immediately after the crux. This is taxing to place and somewhat difficult to find, but will hold at least a small fall... or so I've heard. Many choose to skip it as the stance above is quite good. Higher above the crux, the protection is quite adequate. Keep your eyes peeled and don't skip placements. The climbing above the crux is 5.8-ish.
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